Emulsifiers for Eye Cream Formulation

Hello All,

In your opinion, what would be the most effective emulsifier(s) for an eye cream formula? Here is what I have thus far: 

Part A 
Cucumber Extract 10%
Rose Hydrosol 5%
Witch Hazel Distillate 5% 
Distilled Water 40%

Part B 
Emulsifier? 6%
Liquid Lecithin  3%
Sweet Almond Oil  4%
Cranberry Seed Oil  2%
Shea Butter  2%
Coconut Oil 2%

Part C 
Vitamin E  .2%
Liquid Germall Plus .5%

Thank you for your thoughts :-)

Comments

  • BTMS50. Steer clear of e -wax nf it separates in matter of days. Make sure to agitate for 30 min highest speed possible.

  • Thank you! I appreciate your response. I use E-wax along with Stearic Acid in my lotion formula and it works great. My thoughts were, that combo would be too heavy for a formula that goes under the eye area.
  • johnbjohnb Member
    - - - and the remaining 20.3% is?
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    Emulsifying Wax (EWax) is an emulsifier that many beginners will start with and can make stable emlusions. The issue with it is that it is often perceived as heavy and will exhibit drag or "soaping." To best visualize the issue, think of running a crayon over your skin. It can be overcome. HOWEVER, there are numerous superior emulsifiers out there. It is very uncommon to see EWax in mainstream commercial products. As you grow as a Formulator you will get the chance to try numerous superior emulsifiers.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Either Olivem 1000 or RitaMulse would give you a nice, light emulsion for an eye cream formulation.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • Looks like a nice set-up for Simugel INS 100 INCI  Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 60-----Add to either oil or water phase--cold process--you also add at end and adjust viscosity as desired.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    I love the Seppic brand Taurtrate coploymers. Very easy to use. Unfortunately in today's market of "natural" they get some push-back. For sunless tanners (I do a lot of those), they are my go-to system.

    Olivem 1000 takes a light, experienced touch to make a good eye cream. Too many lines just raise the viscosity by maxing out the Olivem. This gives a great deal of soaping, much like Ewax. However, when paired with a viscosity builder and the right emollients, it is definitely an option.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • We also have to careful of surfactant/emulsifier (and other ingredients) around the eyes, as too aggressive SAA can lead to mild/moderate conjuntival effects which soaping/foaming is an indication of. Polysorbates (such as P-60) mitigate any potential irritation.Even addition of 1-2% more Polysorbate in the oil phase can only help the latter.
  • Thank you all!
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    I like to pair Olivem 1000 (4%) with RitaMulse (4%) and add Isoamyl Laureate ... it give a nice, light emulsion with excellent spread.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • Thank you for Microformulation.  It was not just me then.  I also found olivem gives a lot of soaping and too thick and rich.
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