improving rub-in of moisturizers

bitabita Member
Hi All
I am a new skincare formulator and I have some problems with my creams specially moisturizing creams:
Nearly all of the creams I formulated, have poor rub-in and take time to be absorbed. Some of them have soapy feel on skin during applying, too.
Do you have any suggestion for me ?

This is one of my hand cream:

mineral oil 10
petrolatum 8
cetearyl alcohol 3
C25  1.4
GMS 1.4
carbomer940 0.3
glycerin 5
TEA 0.3
preservative
edta 0.1
water 70


Thanks so much,

Comments

  • johnbjohnb Member, Professional Chemist
    edited April 2017
    The formulation you have given has a distinct resemblance to a pharmaceutical aqueous cream. The high level of hydrocarbons (mineral oil & petrolatum) is responsible for the lack of esthetics - tending to give a greasy skin feel/poor absorption and glycerin in high amounts will give a sticky skin feel.

    I think a re-examination of your formulae and comparison with marketed creams which meet your criteria would help a lot in producing a more suitable
    product. Care must be taken so that you are not introducing a load of snake oil and fairy dust into your basic formulae - at this stage anyway.
  • If you like your formula the way it is for whatever reason--1% Dimethicone will improve rub--in/penetration.
  • Bill_TogeBill_Toge Member, Professional Chemist
    try using emollient esters rather than mineral oil
    UK based formulation chemist. Strongest subjects: hair styling, hair bleaches, hair dyes (oxidative and non-oxidative) I know some stuff about: EU regulations, emulsions (O/W and W/O), toothpaste, mouthwash, shampoos, other toiletries
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    Mineral oil, petrolatum in very high percentages - what did you expect? There's a vast difference between the performance of emollients in this respect. If you want fast absorption you'd best consider emollients such as squalane, capric/caprylic triglycerides ... 
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • ltruongltruong Member
    Hi all,
    just curious, should C25 & GMS be 5.25% instead 1.4% because oil phase is 21%?
    thanks
  • johnbjohnb Member, Professional Chemist
    ltruong This formula has many more problems than the relative levels of C25 & GMS.
  • bitabita Member
    Thank you all
    I am nearly new in formulating creams and your suggestions was very very useful for me.
    I thought using high level of petroleum and mineral oil helps me for having long lasting after feel. but as I understand, it was wrong!

  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    The sensorials are such an enormous topic that it's difficult to say much in few words. A while ago an industry chemist tried one of my creams and said it was a short-medium. I asked him what he meant and he said, 'short play time - stays on the skin a medium time length.' Apparently each market area has its own distinct preference in this respect but where you find this information, I don't know. If you want a luxurious after-feel, then try one or two of the silicone elastomers, eg:
    Dow Corning FZ3196 (caprylyl methicone) and 3901 Liquid Satin Blend (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer)
    - you may need to use the Dow formulation aid if you have emulsion stability issues.

    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
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