Conditioner formula needs more detangling- suggestions please


I am trying to make a conditioner formula that leaves the hair very soft, smooth, detangled, and great shine. I want the conditioner to be thick, but very slippery, as I have very tangly dry hair. I have tried this formula and used it twice. Here are the issues- not detangling enough and my hair is soft, but not as soft as I would like. Hair does feel smooth however. This is a conditioner that would be used once a week. Suggestions?

Here is the formula

Behtrimonium Chloride- 2.3%
cetyl alcohol- 4%
ceatryl alcohol- 3%
shea butter- 2%
Centrimonium Chloride- 2%
dimethicone- 2%
preservative- .5%
citric acid- .2%
fragrance- 1%
glycerin- 1%

I have considered adding amodimethicone, upping the centrimonium chloride, adding a second conditioning agent (BTMS-50),  increasing the dimethicone, or reducing the fatty alcohol content

What are your thoughts? 


  • behentrimonium chloride is far more better than cetromonium
  • Be careful not to overdose the cationic - especially mixed ones. Cationic overload can give products some very unpleasant wax-like coatings on hair which can be difficult to remove.
  • yes but how can i increase the detangling? I added the CETAC for detangling, but it seems not to be enoough
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    You could conduct a knockout experiment

    I suspect the shea butter is actually reducing the detangling effect of other ingredients. Often you can improve formula function by removing ingredients.
  • @Perry ;never thought about removing the shea butter. would an ester provide more slip in place if the shea butter? perhaps fractionated coconut oil or IPM?

    I was actually trying to mimic this conditioner 

    Water/Eau/Aqua, Cetyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Dimethicone, Isopropyl Myristate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Cetearyl Alcohol, Fragance/Parfum, Dorago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil, Hippophaea Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Seed Oil, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ctric Acid, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Butyphenyl Methylproponial, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, BCC12-Base

    this conditioner has alot of slip. i guess it thought that replacing the IPM for more shea butter wouldn't have a big difference. I know they are nothing alike, i thought the shea butter was "better for hair". everything elimanated I didn't think was essential.  
  • My new guess at the formula I am going to try. hopefully with the addition of the ester and less shea butter there will be more slip

    Behentrimonium chloride- 2.5-3%
    Cetyl alcohol- 5%
    CETAC- 2%
    Dimethicone- 2%
    Glycerin- 1%
    Shea butter-.5%
    Cetearyl alcohol- .5%
    preservative- .5%
    water- q.s
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    That looks like a reasonable guess.  
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