Vitamin C serum, solubilizer

I make serum with ascorbic acid + vitamin E + ferulic acid. I decide to solve ferulic acid by propanediol (vegetable). 
I know that most companies dissolve vitamin E by Laureth-23, but I want something more compatibile with skin (not a polyethylene glycol ester) . 
I want to dissolve vitamin E with Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate and I'm wondering if P4C will be good for this solution- will it be stable in pH 3? Some documents suggest that P4C is stable at pH >4. But one recipe of serum with ascorbic acid have P4C in formula:

Perfect C Serum, ingredients:

Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Ascorbic Acid (L), Alcohol, Glycerin, Aqua (Water), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Ergothioneine (L), Buddleja Davidii Meristem Cell Culture, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Lipids, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Citrus Paradisi (Pink Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Fructooligosaccharides (D-beta), Beta-Carotene (D), Glucosamine HCI (D), Wine Extract, Astaxanthin, Tocotrienols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopherol (D-alpha), Ubiquinone (CoQ10), Benzyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum 

What do you think, have you tried this or similar mix?

Comments

  • ZinkZink Member
    edited October 2016
    Alternatively you could use Polysorbate-20, I think you'll just have to try it and see if there's any visible separation. Oh and let me know if you figure out how to avoid tackiness from L-Ascorbic acid!
  • Thank you , I will try p4C. If I will find a non-tackiness formula (without silicones) I'll let you know, but this is tough nut to crack :)
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    You are aware that Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) + Vitamin E + Ferulic Acid at pH below 3.5 is a patent-protection formulation?
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • Yes, I'm aware of this. But antything has changed? I thought that they have a patent for pH 2,5-3.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    They don't limit the patent to that pH. This is really the area of a patent attorney.
    The patent holder will license the technology. However if you ever get large enough to come to their attention you could expect a cease and desist. They interpret the patent to be for the stabilization of L-ascorbic acid with Ferrulic acid.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    The main claim of the patent is that the combination of Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E stabilizes Ascorbic Acid below pH of 3.5, so it's not just the pH range that is covered, but the combination of Ferulic Acid, Vitamin E and Ascorbic Acid.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • BelassiBelassi Member, PCF student
    There certainly is a lot of magic smoke in that formula. I prefer to use a more advanced (but much more expensive) form of vitamin C.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    I agree. Even when these stabilization strategies are applied, a very finite shelf life is achieved. The efficacy is just as good with some of the more stable derivatives and the stability is superior.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    The "hole" in the patent is that it only covers Ascorbic Acid, not other forms of Vitamin C ... so you can use Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate or any other form of Vitamin C, all of which are more stable than Ascorbic Acid and you're not violating the patent.  These forms of Vitamin C are stable in the pH range 6.0 to 7.0.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
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