Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Term for Whitening during Rub-In of Lotions?

  • Term for Whitening during Rub-In of Lotions?

    Posted by gfeldman on August 22, 2016 at 4:04 pm

    Dear fellow chemists,

    Is there an official term for the whitening (phase inversion?) that can occur when lotions are rubbed onto the skin? (Typically seen in formulas that contain high levels of fatty alcohols and no silicone)

    Also, as a followup question; I have a formula that, due to unusual requests, has a high fatty-A content and cannot contain silicone (and thus quite whitening on rub-in).

    Do you have any suggestions on raws (non-silicone) that I could ADD to the current formula to reduce the whitening effect? Oils, esters, or humectants would be ideal. (Would prefer not to mess with emulsifier/fatty acid composition.)

    Thank you for your advice!
    Gfeldman

    Kirk replied 7 years, 7 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • vitalys

    Member
    August 22, 2016 at 4:21 pm

    @ gfeldman , This problem could be solved successfully with:
    - AAK’s Lipex Shealight
    - AAK’s Lipex Sheaclear
    - Phoenix’s Phoenoxol BD-10P
    There are some other emolients you may find useful in Phoenix’s product list as well

  • Kirk

    Member
    August 23, 2016 at 2:26 am

    You are experiencing Soaping Effect. This is usually observed when you are using emulsifiers such as glyceryl stearate. What emulsifiers are you using anyway?

  • gfeldman

    Member
    August 23, 2016 at 2:31 am

    @Kirk Thank you for pointing out what it is called! I feel like I had known that at one point and then forgot…

    I have tried with two different emulsifiers, Glyceryl Stearate and Avalure Flex-6. Both of them soaped. I actually thought it was the emulsifier as well until the avalure formula had the same thing happen.

  • Kirk

    Member
    August 23, 2016 at 8:38 am

    What’s the INCI name of that emulsifier?

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