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23% lipids cream
Posted by em88 on March 28, 2019 at 11:22 amGreetings,
I have a project in formulation a cream o/w.
It is composed by:
Oil phase: Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol,
Water phase: water and lactic buffer based
Emulsifiers: Tween+spanIt should be an easy cream to formulate.
I red in a presentation that this cream has 23% of lipids. I guess this amount is to achieve the viscosity of the cream which is not too thin but it’s not like an ointment. (I’m waiting for more samples to measure the viscosity).
I don’t have experience with Octyldodecanol and my question is, what’s the usual quantity used in creams?. From a quick research I got 1.5-6%.Thank you
em88 replied 5 years, 10 months ago 4 Members · 9 Replies -
9 Replies
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Think of it as of vegetable oil. It’s a medium viscosity ester. Very multifunctional. You can use more than 6%.
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ngarayeva001 said:Think of it as of vegetable oil. It’s a medium viscosity ester. Very multifunctional. You can use more than 6%.
That would be great, I can regulate the viscosity much easier.
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I have just checked my formulas, I use 8% in one of o/w lotions (total oil phase is 20% that inlude other esters and fatty alcohols). It is used in lip balms as a first ingredient:
https://uk.loccitane.com/natural-shea-awarded-best-lip-balm,83,1,29776,271948.htm#s=75880
https://incidecoder.com/products/nivea-pure-and-natural-milk-and-honey-lip-balm
So, you can definitely use more than 6%.
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I wrote a few formulas, and I was thinking to try first 8% octyldodecanol.
Just found a clotrimazole cream drug with 13.5% octyldodecanolsorbitan stearate - 2 g, cetyl palmitate, cetostearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol 60% and stearyl alcohol 40%), polysorbate 60 - 1.5 g, octyldodecanol - 13.5 g, benzyl alcohol, purified waterIt is strange that they added more sorbitan stearate than polysorbate 60 for a o/w cream. Did they consider Cetearyl Alcohol as an emulsifier?
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Did they consider Cetearyl Alcohol as an emulsifier?
— It IS. -
I am sure it has something to do with the calculation. I have a formula (it has been stable at the room temperature for the last 7 months) emulsified with 3% Glyceryl Oleate and 1% of Polysorbate 60 and it is O/W. Oil pase is 10%. Recalculate the HLB.
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Phase INCI % 100.0 A Aqua 83.10% 83.10 A Disodium EDTA 0.20% 0.20 A Glycerin 1.00% 1.00 A Ultrez 30 0.70% 0.70 HLB Ratio B Prunus amygdalus
dulcis10.00% 10.00 6 B Glyceryl Oleate 3.00% 3.00 3.5 2.63 B Polysorbate 60 1.00% 1.00 14.9 3.73 C Germaben II 1.00% 1.00 6.35 C TEA qs HLB of the oil phase is 6, HLB of the blend of emulsifiers 6.35. Oil in water lightweight gel.
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Try using emulsifier Sepiplus 400
it is freedom formulation to 50% oul -
Belassi said:Did they consider Cetearyl Alcohol as an emulsifier?
— It IS.So you changed your mind? https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/745/cetearyl-alcohol-emulsifier-or-not
ngarayeva001 said:I am sure it has something to do with the calculation. I have a formula (it has been stable at the room temperature for the last 7 months) emulsified with 3% Glyceryl Oleate and 1% of Polysorbate 60 and it is O/W. Oil pase is 10%. Recalculate the HLB.You might be right.
sorbitan stearate - 2 %, polysorbate 60 - 1.5 % can emulsify an oil phase with the HLB of 9.08
cetyl palmitate rHLB - 10 (3%)
cetearyl alcohol rHLB - 15.5 (10%)
Octyldodecanol rHLB - around 11 (13.5%) accourding to this paper: https://www.researchgate.net/publication/289449490_Required_Hydrophilic-Lipophilic_Balance_Values_of_Octyldodecanol_from_Emulsion_Stability_Tests_and_Relative_Dielectric_Permittivity_MeasurementsDtdang said:Try using emulsifier Sepiplus 400
it is freedom formulation to 50% oulI’m not allowed to change formula, I’m stuck with the same ingredients as the reference.
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