Formulating with pigments

We are using Sensient Cosmetics pigment in our oil based makeup that we mill ourselves. We want to create different water-based products, how would you recommend using these none-milled pigments? 

Milling
We tried milling them and adding them to the oil-phrase, but that doesn't emulsify when added to water-phrase. What solvents or methods should we use to add them to emulsions? Any tips? 

Silicones and formula
Any good ingredients to use to get a good wear and wearablility of formulas that uses pigments and should work as foundaton/concealer? We are considering to use Trimethylsiloxy silicate, polypropyl silsesquioxane fron MakingCosmetics.com. 
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Comments

  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    Natural, I will suggest trying a w/o (inverse-phase) emulsion since your pigment wetting agents and extenders are mainly aliphatic and aromatic esters, correct? Oil suspension can use silica if that is needed. This will also afford better payout of same when applied.  You can go high water activity or low, depending on the desired outcome and w/o emulsifier.
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    First, I'm going to recommend hiring a consultant, or getting together with a contract manufacturer that has a lab. Water-based makeup is complicated.

    Second, Matt is correct. The only way to make a water-based makeup with pre-ground pigments in oil is to make a w/o emulsion. You're going to need to find a way to suspend the pigments, though. Silica is a good starting point.
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • How do you recommend using the silicia then? I normally grind the pigments with Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides. I would try to use Glyceryl Streate as an w/o emulsifier. 
  • BobzchemistBobzchemist Member, PCF student
    What are you using to grind the pigments with?
    Robert Zonis, Sr. Formulation Chemist, Beaumont Products "All opinions and comments expressed are my own, have no relation to Beaumont Products, are fully copyrighted, and may not be used without written permission."
  • 3 roll miller!
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