Preservative choices

BelassiBelassi Member
edited April 2016 in Formulating
Due to negative customer opinion it looks like I will have to remove parabens from our creams. I have been using Spectrastat by Inolex for quite a while at the minimum recommended level (0.7%) in our gels, which are oil-free, with no problems. Shelf life is at least 6 months. Spectrastat (caprylhydroxamic acid and caprylyl glycol and glycerin) is an attractive option because it technically is preservative-free.
This is a shout for HELP! because I never expected so many options.

My options are: 1-5 "blended systems for ease of use"
1. Lexgard HPO (caprylyl glycol and hexylene glycol and phenoxyethanol) "paraben free"
2. Lexgard OE 90 (caprylyl glycol and ethylhexylglycerine) "preservative free"
3. Lexgard NAP (caprylyl glycol and phenethyl alcohol) "preservative free"
4. Lexgard GCP (glyceryl caprylate and phenethyl alcohol) "preservative free"
5. Lexgard Natural (glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl undecylenate) "preservative free"

6-8 "optimized systems providing robust, broad spectrum activity" all "preservative free" except Spectragard which is "paraben free"
6. Spectrastat (caprylhydroxamic acid and caprylyl glycol and glycerine)
7. Spectrastat G (caprylhydroxamic acid and glyceryl caprylate and methylpropanediol)
8. Spectragard (added only at <50C) (caprylyl glycol and hexylene glycol and methylisothiazolinone)

"budget systems supplying affordable broad-spectrum activity"
9. Phenostat (caprylhydroxamic acid and phenoxyethanol and methylpropanediol) "paraben free"
10. Benzostat (caprylhydroxamic acid and benzyl alcohol and glycerine) "paraben free"
11. Aromastat (caprylhydroxamic acid and phenethyl alcohol and glycerine) "preservative free"
12. Zeastat (caprylhydroxamic acid and propanediol) "preservative free"
Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.

Comments

  • We put Lexgard NAP in our prototypes along with a natural chelating agent and it's proven pretty robust.

    The rose scent of phenethyl alcohol is pleasant and smells appropriate for facial care products. The women in my husband's family (all Mexican) always comment on how much they enjoy the scent.

    That said, I personally find the scent a tad traditional for my taste and our brand direction is more herbaceous, less floral. We are planning to transition to Benzostat because benzyl alcohol has a milder aroma that is easier to blend with.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    I just started using this from Lincoln Fine Ingredients:

    Linatural Ultra 1: Propanediol (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Pentylene Glycol

    All natural ingredients from renewable plant sources. No complaints.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • ozgirlozgirl Member, PCF student
    I did a few trials with Spectrastat in a shampoo and body wash and had good results but in the end decided not to go ahead with it due to cost. I liked this system because it was suitable over a range of pH values.

    I would stay away from Spectragard with the isothiazolinones as they are getting a very bad name also. Isothiazolinones are not recommended for leave on products.

    Unless all of your products are self-preserved (aka "preservative free") I don't think it is is necessary to use a preservative free system. It just usually adds extra costs for less preservation.

    We use Geogard 221 (Benzyl Alcohol and Dehydroacetic Acid) in our creams with good results.
  • BelassiBelassi Member
    edited April 2016
    Thank you all for your comments, so far! As a result I have already knocked out 4 of the possibles. I didn't know phenethyl alcohol smelt like roses - I'd rather add the fragrances we prefer. And I was unaware of the problem with isothiazolinones. Any more comments will be very welcome.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    You can always make you own blend: 6.0% 1,3-Propanediol + 0.5% Benzyl Alcohol + 0.5% Caprylyl Glycol (or Ethylhexylglycerin).

    If you don't like the scent of Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol is similar, but the scent is reduced considerably.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • BelassiBelassi Member
    edited April 2016
    It makes me realise that I don't know much about any of these different substances :(
    I guess my next step is to find out the MOQs and prices. I know that the MOQ with Inolex is usually pretty large. I've decided to reformulate all the creams, there is no point in doing it one at a time. I already did one today, our most expensive one. It came out better than before but I will have to put a few to one side and begin shelf life testing. I'm hoping it will be OK. I set the pH to 4.5 (was 5.5), increased glycerin to 3% and added 0.2% EDTA.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • I need to source some Lexguard NAP - now ridiculously curious about it due to the scent!
  • To be honest it doesn't really mater which blend options you choose, when you move away from the traditional preservatives (phenoxy, parabens, MIT, etc..) you need to PET test each formula. Is this something you practice on your current line?

    Remember that when working with organic acids your formula pH will really be driving your preservative efficacy
  • @Belassi: You may also want to consider Linatural MBS-2 from Lincoln Fine Ingredients: Caprylic acid, 1,3 Propanediol, Lauric acid and Potassium Sorbate. It's NPA certified and naturally derived. It has a mild odor--nothing unpleasant, and it's easily covered up with essential oils or fragrance. I've only used it in shampoo, where it causes some thickening and a very slight amber color. I haven't done PET yet, so I can't comment on its efficacy, but the manufacturer includes their own results in the TDS.
  • The problem with Lincoln is that it would be an import item and thus, problematic.
    Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
  • I wanted to purchase Caprylhydroxamic acid, glyceryl caprylate, glycerin from www.makingcosmetics.com but they say it is not broad spectrum and preservation is ≤12 months.
    Have you used this blend? 
    Is it broad spectrum?
    Can it preserve for more than a year? 
    What is the effect on nonionic surfactant shampoo? 
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    No, it is not broad spectrum. It is barely a preservative.
    No, it won't preserve something for a year.

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