Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup Substitute for isododecane in liquid lipstick.

  • Substitute for isododecane in liquid lipstick.

    Posted by windyr on April 8, 2016 at 5:32 pm

    Hi, these seems to be a shortage of isodecane and I was wondering if anyone knows what solvent I can use as a substitute in formulating a matte liquid lipstick. 

    bobzchemist replied 7 years, 11 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • bobzchemist

    Member
    April 8, 2016 at 5:42 pm

    Mineral oil will probably work, as will various other hydrocarbons. What are you trying to dissolve in your solvent?

  • windyr

    Member
    April 11, 2016 at 2:07 pm

    Isodecane is solvent to dissolve the colorants and leave a matte finish. Mineral oil is too oily as is cyclomethicone and other silicones I have tried.

  • bobzchemist

    Member
    April 11, 2016 at 2:36 pm

    If you find mineral oil, silicones, and even cyclomethicone too oily, there are no possible alternatives to isododecane available that are acceptable for use in lip-area cosmetics.

    But…the fact that you’re telling me that you are going to dissolve the colorants you plan on using in your lipstick, and that you think doing so will give you a matte effect on lips also tells me that you do not have the knowledge and/or expertise needed to formulate a matte liquid lipstick successfully yet. So my recommendation is to study the patents and literature related to lipstick formulation generally, and matte lipstick specifically, before you worry about not being able to get isododecane. Very likely, the shortage will be over by the time you need that solvent.

  • windyr

    Member
    April 12, 2016 at 5:19 pm

    Actually, the product has been developed and is on the market. The shortage of isododecane has forced me to seek an alternative in the event I cannot get supplies on time. I have tested a few alternatives but they do not give me the drying time I need. 

  • markbroussard

    Member
    April 12, 2016 at 6:43 pm

    @windyr:

    You might try Trisiloxane or a Cyclopentasiloxane & Trisiloxane blend.  Trisiloxane is more volatile than Isododecane, so you may want to “tame” it a bit with the Cyclopentasiloxane so it isn’t too drying on the lips.
  • bobzchemist

    Member
    April 12, 2016 at 7:06 pm

    Have you looked at the volatile dimethicones? I know you said that silicones were too oily, that’s why I told you that you wouldn’t find alternatives, and clearly I misjudged your level of expertise. But I have a bad habit of not realizing that there are products that people don’t know about, so… any dimethicone under 2 cst or so is volatile:





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