I just had my first lotion failure ever today. Formula below. I usually heat and hold separate phases for 20 mins at 75c however following discussions in my discussion group (which includes cosmetic chemists) regarding using the one pot method, in the name of experimentation, I decided to try the one phase/pot method but with two brand new ingredients - Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate as the sole emulsifier, and cetyl palmitate (instead of cetyl alcohol).
I used a stick blender as always. It didn't seem too bad (but v strange consistency) until i added the cool down phase then it thinned drastically and a few mins later separated.
Were there too many silicones. vaseline and esters for the emulsifier to handle? perhaps it needs two phases, not one?? I was advised that Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate can be used as sole emulsifier but perhaps it needed another emulsifier or a higher % ?? Tried to rescue it by adding 0.3% xanthan gum at the end but it didn't work.
Photos showing each stage of the process here - (You can view it in order horizontally and you will see in the bottom left hand side I've described what's happening and numbered the photos).
sodium lactate 3.00%
200x concentrated aloe vera powder 0.10%
liquid hydrolysed oats 3.50%
shea butter 12.00%
vaseline/petroleum jelly 3.00%
c12-15 alkyl benzoate 4.00%
cetyl palmitate 4.00%
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate 5.00%
meadowfoam oil 4.00%
vitamin e 0.50%
COOL DOWN PHASE
liquid germall plus (Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) 0.50%
panthenol liquid 1.00%