Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating HEC and soapiness

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  • HEC and soapiness

    Posted by Jasmine2 on November 27, 2022 at 7:42 pm

    So, I decided to formulate a test batch of AHA serum using HEC as the gelling ingredient. I honestly don’t know what grade of HEC I purchased as I got it from a local supplier who has no idea what grade of HEC she’s selling. But my main concern is on the soapy effect it gives on application to the skin. While it creates a clear serum-ey gel at the right percentage and also sinks in beautifully into the skin, I hate the soapy effect it offers. Is this normal with HEC? If so, how can it be avoided without changing the formula to an emulsion serum

    Jasmine2 replied 1 year, 3 months ago 8 Members · 13 Replies
  • 13 Replies
  • microformulation

    Member
    November 27, 2022 at 9:14 pm

    You would really need to post the entire Formulation for anyone to help.

  • graillotion

    Member
    November 27, 2022 at 11:15 pm

    Are you saying….what is on your hand….is Just HEC and water?

  • Jasmine2

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 4:25 am

    You would really need to post the entire Formulation for anyone to help.

    Distilled water       25%. 
    allantoin.                0.5%    
    sodium lactate.     3%.      
    hyaluronic acid.     0.1%.    
    citric acid                1%.       
    lactic acid.               7.95%.  
    glycolic acid.           2.27%.   
    distilled water.        58.08%.    
    HEC.                          0.6%.          
    germall plus.            0.5%.          
    NaOH solution.         q.s
  • Jasmine2

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 4:27 am

    Lilly said:

    So, I decided to formulate a test batch of AHA serum using HEC as the gelling ingredient. I honestly don’t know what grade of HEC I purchased as I got it from a local supplier who has no idea what grade of HEC she’s selling. But my main concern is on the soapy effect it gives on application to the skin. While it creates a clear serum-ey gel at the right percentage and also sinks in beautifully into the skin, I hate the soapy effect it offers. Is this normal with HEC? If so, how can it be avoided without changing the formula to an emulsion serum

    You would really need to post the entire Formulation for anyone to helGraillotion said:
    Are you saying….what is on your hand….is Just HEC and water?

    No. That is not what I’m saying. However, prior to taking this picture, I made dissolved 0.5% HEC in 99.5% water. I experienced thesame but did not take it seriously since it was my first time working with HEC. I’ll make another batch with just HEC and distilled water and send a picture over of the soapy feel

  • ketchito

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 1:01 pm

    @Lilly HEC can have that effect. Could you replace some of your HEC with Xanthan gum?

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 5:04 pm

    @Lilly, @ketchito is right on here: the “activated” versions (easy to disperse) will foam like this. Straight up HEC foams less.

  • Vignesh_95

    Member
    November 29, 2022 at 8:17 am

    Lilly said:

    So, I decided to formulate a test batch of AHA serum using HEC as the gelling ingredient. I honestly don’t know what grade of HEC I purchased as I got it from a local supplier who has no idea what grade of HEC she’s selling. But my main concern is on the soapy effect it gives on application to the skin. While it creates a clear serum-ey gel at the right percentage and also sinks in beautifully into the skin, I hate the soapy effect it offers. Is this normal with HEC? If so, how can it be avoided without changing the formula to an emulsion serum

    Hi, You can Try with Xanthan Gum(Keltrol Range), and Polyquaternium 37 Which give a clear transparent Gel System. Ultrez Range Polymers also Can Be Used

  • Jasmine2

    Member
    November 29, 2022 at 10:33 am

    ketchito said:

    @Lilly HEC can have that effect. Could you replace some of your HEC with Xanthan gum?

    Thanks for your reply. I would’ve done so but the grade of xanthum gum I have at the moment is quite low. Very stringy and creates cloudy gels. But when I have my hands on xanthum gum soft, I’ll try it again. 

  • Jasmine2

    Member
    November 29, 2022 at 10:34 am

    Lilly said:

    So, I decided to formulate a test batch of AHA serum using HEC as the gelling ingredient. I honestly don’t know what grade of HEC I purchased as I got it from a local supplier who has no idea what grade of HEC she’s selling. But my main concern is on the soapy effect it gives on application to the skin. While it creates a clear serum-ey gel at the right percentage and also sinks in beautifully into the skin, I hate the soapy effect it offers. Is this normal with HEC? If so, how can it be avoided without changing the formula to an emulsion serum

    Hi, You can Try with Xanthan Gum(Keltrol Range), and Polyquaternium 37 Which give a clear transparent Gel System. Ultrez Range Polymers also Can Be Used

    Thanks so much. I’ll reformulate these when I have my hands on any of these. 

  • ariepfadli

    Member
    November 29, 2022 at 6:29 pm

    Add some volatile solvent like alcohol or PG will help to break foam formed during rubbing on your skin, i also have that problem, but as serum usage not as much you apply in you hand, so it’s okay as long you rub it more slower with slight pressure the foam will disappears. If still persistent reduce viscosity or hec concentration.

  • Jasmine2

    Member
    November 30, 2022 at 6:30 am

    Add some volatile solvent like alcohol or PG will help to break foam formed during rubbing on your skin, i also have that problem, but as serum usage not as much you apply in you hand, so it’s okay as long you rub it more slower with slight pressure the foam will disappears. If still persistent reduce viscosity or hec concentration.

    Thanks so much. I finally reduced the % of HEC to 0.35%. It still foams but not as much. I hydrated the HEC in glycerin first before adding water. Next time, I’ll retry it with PG. 

  • paprik

    Member
    November 30, 2022 at 9:12 pm

    I don’t think you need to slurry the HEC. Just add to water, disperse properly, raise pH, let hydrate and do whatever you need after :) 

  • Jasmine2

    Member
    November 30, 2022 at 9:36 pm

    Paprik said:

    I don’t think you need to slurry the HEC. Just add to water, disperse properly, raise pH, let hydrate and do whatever you need after :) 

    Yes. I’ve figured there are different ways of working with HEC. Just wanted to see if creating a slurry in glycerin will reduce the soapy effect HEC gives on application to skin. 

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