New to Formulating - Creating a gel cream

Hello Everyone,
I am new to formulating, have been experimenting for about 5 months now. I am trying to create a water gel cream for oily-acne prone skin. A week ago,  I created a  "gel cream" using only Sepinov EMT 10 as the emulsifier but it was too sticky for me. My brand is also against using silicones.(I've heard this cuts down on stickiness) I am trying a new formula with RitaMulse(Also EcoMulse) because I love the powdery skin feel . I want to use this as a cream but also to have that gel component for the "gel cream" so I added in sepinov emt for that gel texture. After making the emulsion, it was too liquid and didn't really have that thickness I'm going for in a gel cream. There was also bit of a drag with a small soaping effect. My purpose for this gel cream is a light water gel cream that is hydrating and moisturizing for oily acne prone skin that won't clog pores, no irritation and not leave a greasy feeling or look to the skin. Here's the formula I just tried:

Heated Water Phase
Water 75.9%
Allantoin 0.3%
Glycerin 3%
Willow Bark(powder form) 5%
Sodium Phytate 0.2%
Panthenol 1%

Heated Oil Phase
RitaMulse 7%
Squalane 1%
Caprylic Capri Triglycerides 2%
Jojoba Esters 1%
Sepinov .5%

Cool Down
HMW Hyaluronic Acid .30%
Euxyl 703 .80%
Goji Berry Extract (dissolved in propanediol) 2%

After heating both to 158F , dissolving the Sepinov into the oil phase, I added the water phase into oil phase and mixed using my stick blender. It was very liquid. I mixed for awhile and it did not thicken, so I left it alone. I came back a few minutes later and used a mini milk frothier and then it thickened and became thick like a lotion but not really the gel cream I'm going for and also a small soaping effect. I then added the HA and it was small chunks as I mixed but dissolved over time. 

Any suggestions on what can I do to get that gel cream texture that's thick but also breaks nice on the skin. I also would like to know if the HA and goji berry extract(extract and propanediol) can be added in the heated water phase to cut down on the cool down phase. 

Thanks in advance! 

Comments

  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    7% Ritamulse for that small amount of oil phase? No wonder you get slight soaping... However, cutting down on it would further reduce viscosity. Maybe replace some of it with crystal gel network promoters which do not contain lactylates?
  • Yeah, I was surprised too. 7% for 4% oil phase. Cray cray :D 
    However ... have you tried working with Carbomer? 940/980? 
    If I want something creamy, but also for it to have the gel properties I include it. 
    It thickens perfectly and on application it kind of breaks down. And it's very light. 

    Also, evaluate your samples the next day. For some emulsifiers it takes even couple of days to reach their full viscosity. 

    Do not heat hyaluronic acid, as for the extract check with your supplier (but I would say do not heat either), propanediol is ok to be heated. Can be added into water phase. [Usually used to slurry a gum if being used]

    PS. I would take off some water from phase A and let hydrate the HA there - separately. Then I would add that below 40°C in cool down phase. Much easier to incorporate it this way. [You can see when the HA has fully hydrated before adding it into the rest of the formula]

    Hope this helps, Happy formulating! 
  • You can use Olivem 1000 or Polyaquol 2W to create such a product. Putting them into the water phase with or without any additional emollients, and you'll get a nice cream gel which isn't sticky.
    The advantage is that you can use electrolytes without breaking the emulsion. 
  • The Sodium Phytate won't do so well with the Sepinov EMT 10, so you can test the effect of the Sepinov alone with the Sodium Phytate to see what kind of viscosity you get. 
  • Do you really need the soaping effect?
    Since you are a beginner and already familiar with Seppic products, I'd suggest you use Sepineo P600. It is suitable for cold processes. You will not need RitaMulse and Sepinov EMT 10 if you use Sepineo P600. 
  • If you like Ritamulse, PolyAquol 2W (already mentioned above) would be a good alternative - it also gives you that powdery effect you like and it doesn't cause soaping. I would also try to increase the amount of oil, and Sepinov EMT 10 if you still don't achieve the desired viscosity. If your gel was sticky, it can be also caused by 1% panthenol.
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