Hello all! I am new here and am still quite new to formulating but I would love any input you may add. Also my apologies if this is quite lengthy.
I am starting a bit simple, but also trying to add my own small contribution. I am making a 2oz/ 56.69g brightening face cream to target dark spots.
I started with a base cream from a lab
(25-60%) Aloe Leaf Juice
(5-25%) Coconut Oil
(4-10%) Emulsifying Wax (Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60)
(4-10%) Stearic Acid
(3-8%) Ascorbyl Palmitate
(1-8%) Sunflower Seed Oil
(1-5%) Red Raspberry Fruit Extract
(1-5%) Cranberry Fruit Extract
(1-5%) White Willow Bark Extract
(1-5%) Rosehip Seed Oil
(1-8%) Neem Seed Oil
(1-5%) Rosemary Leaf Extract
(1-5%) Sunflower Seed Oil
(1-4%) Organic Alcohol
(0.1-2%) Xanthan Gum
(0.1-2%) Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
From the base cream I am using 92% (52.15g) for the cream and adding my additional ingredients.
I am adding
3% Licorice root extract
2.5% cucumber fruit extract
1.5% alpha arbutin
0.5% pomegranate seed oil
0.5% Olivem 2090
All the ingredients I am adding apart from alpha arbutin are oil soluble, so I first dissolve alpha arbutin in water. My issue is I feel I am not adding enough alpha arbutin in general though I have tried to communicate with the lab. I know around 0.151g of alpha arbutin is soluble in 1g of water and so to calculate 1.5% in my 2 oz cream I somehow only add around 0.113g from the alpha I dissolve in water.
I think my calculations might be in error, also upon trying to work with the lab I was told to try 0.85g of alpha arbutin in 1-2ml of water, this did not dissolve for me and started to crystalize. Then I was told to try 6ml of water to disperse the 0.85grams.
Please if anyone could just help me out on the alpha arbutin amount/usage, I would truly appreciate it!