Hello there! Brand new formulator here with a need for some advice:
I am in the middle of formulating my first body oil. My formula began as anhydrous without any thought to solvents or emulsifiers until I decided to use Bakuchiol extract (which says it is oil-soluble but its components are Bakuchiol and water on the Making Cosmetics detailed info) and Vitamin A Microcaps from the same supplier (Glycine soja, retinol, cellulose gum, acrylates/ c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, chitosan, glycolic acid, polysorbate 20, sorbitan oleate). Although they both state that they are either miscible or soluble in oils, in the past, if I do not account for the other components then I can have issues. So, I decided to add an emulsifier that can help bring together the oils with the other ingredients, understanding that I will not have much to emulsify. This is when I came across lecithin. After using cera bellina and not liking the texture it gave, even at different %s, lecithin looked to be an answer to my prayers, including based on what I read on many formulating threads and works of literature that I have. I also an not terribly worried about texture because I don't believe I will need to use much, and the oils I am using are already very thin and dry-feeling. The form I have has an HLB of 4, is liquid, and is made from soy.
But now I am a bit worried. I have perused the threads on there regarding lecithin as an emulsifier, and I am glad I did because there are formulation issues that have not been discussed in the literature I have, yet clearly, they exist.
What can I expect in a formula that is 93% oils (including vitamin E) 5% retinol microspheres, 1% Bakuchiol extract, and 1% lecithin (so far that is the plan)?
Or, do I need the lecithin at all? Seeing that the Bakuchiol is composed of Bakuchiol and water, plus the ingredients in the retinol microspheres, I have a hard time believing that I will not need a solubilizer or emulsifier of some kind. Plus, these ingredients are not cheap, so I want to be ahead of the game.
Thank you in advance!