Something is wrong with my cleansing bal

Everything looks great at first, but after a day the emulsion separates. But even after making it , it is too thin. I thought that by giving 8% of glyceryl stearate se i will archive something looking like thick balm but it looks like thin face cream. What am i doing wrong?

My formula:

Almond oil

5,00

Glyceryl Stearate SE

8,00

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

1,00

Shea butter

1,00

Cocoa buttel

7,00

cetyl alcohol

3,00

Castor oil

0,50

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

10,00

Water

46,20

Panthenol

0,50

Glycerin

4,00

Xantan gum

0,20

CAPB (30%)

10,00

Squalane

1,00

preservative

1,00

sodium lactate

1,60


Comments

  • ketchitoketchito Member
    @Karo_lina You have a high load of fats. Butters are specially hard to emulsify. Any chance you could drastically cut on them? Also, you could add a bit more Castor oil, as long as it's PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.
  • Karo_linaKaro_lina Member
    I don't have  hydrogenated castor oil in my laboratory, cutting butters would not be a problem but what about viscosity? wouldn't that make my emulsion even thinner?
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    How does emulsion separate? 

    Oil separates on top or water separates in bottom? 

    And what is the ph?


  • ketchitoketchito Member
    @Karo_lina If you want viscosity, you need something that strengthens your interface. Try replacing those butters by either more fatty alcohols or cetyl palmitate. You coud also reduce a bit your caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • Karo_linaKaro_lina Member
    Abdullah said:
    How does emulsion separate? 

    Oil separates on top or water separates in bottom? 

    And what is the ph?


    pH is 5,5. As for the separation, at first there are small oil droplets in the top of the emulsion  and then oil separates on the top. 
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    It means your oil phase is more than what your emulsifier can emulsify. 

    Try changing emulsifier, increasing emulsifier or reducing oil phase.
  • ozgirlozgirl Member, PCF student
    Your pH is too low for the Glyceryl Stearate SE emulsifier. Your pH needs to be between 6.8 to 8.2.


  • Karo_linaKaro_lina Member
    ozgirl said:
    Your pH is too low for the Glyceryl Stearate SE emulsifier. Your pH needs to be between 6.8 to 8.2.


    My supplier said it needs pH between 5,0 - 7,5
  • ozgirlozgirl Member, PCF student
    I would double check with your supplier.Are they a reseller or the manufacturer. The information above comes directly from the manufacturer.

    You need a mildly alkaline pH to keep the Potassium Stearate (the emulsifying part of glyceryl stearate SE) in the soap form.

    In any case you could try it at pH 7 and see if that fixes the problem.
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