Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Emulsified lotion or cream with no emulsifier

  • graillotion

    Member
    May 17, 2022 at 7:48 pm

    Maybe not a complete inci…as they list numerous ingredients in the marketing portion.

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    May 17, 2022 at 10:09 pm

    That’s strange…i would also like to know how they did that. If they are just omitting the emulsifier from their LOI that’s pretty risky for them, no?

    on a similar note, and not to hijack your thread, i would like to know how this company made this product:

    https://pachasoap.com/products/coconut-papaya

     It’s a more complicated LOI than the one linked to above and I’m guessing it’s entirely possible to do it with the ingredients listed but my formulation skills are just not advanced enough to understand how…they are able to mix oil and water with no emulsifier and seemingly not enough of the right surfactant to do the job. 

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    May 17, 2022 at 11:14 pm

    Well looking into the symbiome product more it seems that they are claiming that this lactobacillus ferment probiotic is somehow on its own both emulsifying and preserving the product. I’ve never heard of such a thing before…Bioemulsifiers? Pretty interesting stuff if true…

    https://www.musingsmag.com/the-lowdown-on-skin-microbiome/

  • graillotion

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 3:20 am

    There is a well-known company that sells ferments in the industry…that seems to keep getting extra ingredients splashed into their products that fail to make their label.  So, if that is your business model…why not toss in an emulsifier….you should see the other junk they throw in.  :D

  • squinny

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 3:44 am

    Just been looking into for fun and found out it is also has a trade name Leucidal® Liquid SF and states it is the newest of the natural, plant-based preservatives from Active Micro Technologies. Active Micro Technologies combines the current trends for alternative preservative systems with peptide technology.

    Leucidal® Liquid SF is a probiotic-based ingredient created by the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium. Lactobacillus is one of the species of microorganisms used to produce fermented products such as sau¬erkraut and kimchi, a Korean dietary staple, from cabbage. Like many members of the lactic acid bacteria family, Lactobacillus is capable of restricting the growth of other microorganisms by acidifying its environment. However, in addition to acidifying its environment, Lactobacillus also produces novel antimicrobial peptides, also known as bacteriocins, that are capable of providing broad spectrum antimicrobial protection.

    Maybe the emulsifier/s are at less than % (or so they claim and same with any thickeners) and if so do they need to list them? (dont know).

    Apparently according to a 2009 Estee Lauder patent, it’s a DNA repair enzyme and it can help to protect the skin against environmental aggressors.

    Second, still according to Estee Lauder research but now from 2012 the ingredient has anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties and holds promise in the treatment of acne and rosacea. For the former one 5% was needed to show effectiveness, but for reducing skin sensitivity already 1% showed results. 

    Also their eye cream doesnt have an emulsifier in LOI either.

    PS they really know how to charge - $150 (USD I assume) for 15 ml of eye cream - crazy!

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 4:19 am

    @Graillotion so what you’re saying is… God forbid my cat accidentally knocks over a bag of Montanov 202 into a jug of oil when I’m not looking…I may have the next innovative face cream invention?!? 

  • graillotion

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 4:20 am

    Squinny said:

    Just been looking into for fun and found out it is also has a trade name Leucidal® Liquid SF and states it is the newest of the natural, plant-based preservatives from Active Micro Technologies. Active Micro Technologies combines the current trends for alternative preservative systems with peptide technology. enzyme and it can help to protect the skin against environmental aggressors.

    Not sure you’ll find many takers on this site….that it qualifies as a preservative. :) 

  • squinny

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 4:29 am

    Squinny said:

    Just been looking into for fun and found out it is also has a trade name Leucidal® Liquid SF and states it is the newest of the natural, plant-based preservatives from Active Micro Technologies. Active Micro Technologies combines the current trends for alternative preservative systems with peptide technology. enzyme and it can help to protect the skin against environmental aggressors.

    Not sure you’ll find many takers on this site….that it qualifies as a preservative. :) 
     Yes agree - Just saying what it is and apparently meant to do. ::smile:

  • graillotion

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 4:41 am

    @Graillotion so what you’re saying is… God forbid my cat accidentally knocks over a bag of Montanov 202 into a jug of oil when I’m not looking…I may have the next innovative face cream invention?!? 

    Bingo…if your business model is… only list the ingredients people want to see…. you are well on your way. :) 

  • grapefruit22

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 12:11 pm

    Well looking into the symbiome product more it seems that they are claiming that this lactobacillus ferment probiotic is somehow on its own both emulsifying and preserving the product. I’ve never heard of such a thing before…Bioemulsifiers? Pretty interesting stuff if true…

    https://www.musingsmag.com/the-lowdown-on-skin-microbiome/

    They provide some explanation here:
    https://symbiome.com/blogs/journal/what-is-a-biointact-emulsion

    In other products they use surfactants and tara gum, so there’s no reason to hide ingredients of this type in a cream.

  • GeorgeBenson

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 7:04 pm

    @grapefruit22 i want to believe it…but if this is true that you can make an emulsion with bacteria why isn’t this the most revolutionary discovery in cosmetics right now? Shouldn’t this be a bigger deal? I mean that’s a pretty gigantic discovery, isnt it?

  • grapefruit22

    Member
    May 18, 2022 at 8:04 pm

    It depends on whether this emulsion is cheaper, faster to make, or more stable. Take a look at this patent, they got emulsion using fermented rice:
    https://patents.google.com/patent/EP1366736B1/en

  • jemolian

    Member
    May 19, 2022 at 12:36 am

    Looking at the inventor info, i’d assume the fermented rice emulsifier is the Technolong Rice Ferment LP since it’s from Technoble? I saw it being sold by China repackers. 

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