How would you improve ?

filizfiliz Member
in Formulating
Hello, 
Im working on a hair serum and I need professional opinions about this formulation. How can I improve the sticky feelings and heavy feelings?

How would you improve ? 

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 36%
ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE                26,60%
JOJOBA OIL                                  3,00%
OLIVE OIL                                    5,00%
ARGAN OIL                                  2,00%
SUNFLOWER OIL                          10,00%
E VİTAMİNİ                                  0,1%
SWEET ALMOND OIL                    10,00%
HEMP SEED OIL                            5,00%
Preservative                                 0,8%
Fragrance                                    1,50%

thanks :):
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Comments

  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    It is all oils and oils are heavy
  • CamelCamel Member
    I would reduce fragrance to 1% or less. To make it feel lighter, you could try replacing some of the olive oil and sweet almond oil with a lighter oil like the sunflower seed oil, but I agree with Abdullah. You might consider using esters instead of oils for a less sticky/heavy product. 
  • filizfiliz Member
    First of all, thank you for replying. What esters would you recommend? @Camel

  • ketchitoketchito Member
    @filiz Even though vegetable oils can make your formula feel heavy, ester in your formula can also contribute, especialy the ones you are using. Try replacing part of them for more volatile lubricants like Emogreen L9 or some of cyclomethicone replacements (Inolex has some nice ones).

    Also, that amount of Isopropyl myristate can increase irritation. Plus, some vegetable oils can be comedogenic, so don't use too much of them.
  • filizfiliz Member
    Hi, hope you're fine @ketchito ;
    I'm having a hard time finding some silicone alternatives, frankly. 
    What % do you think isopropyl myristate should be reduced to? and If you have any other suggestions that meet the condition, please let me know  
  • WarrenChemistWarrenChemist Member
    filiz said:
    Hi, hope you're fine @ketchito ;
    I'm having a hard time finding some silicone alternatives, frankly. 
    What % do you think isopropyl myristate should be reduced to? and If you have any other suggestions that meet the condition, please let me know  
    For silicone alternatives I'm fond of the lexfeel series if you can get your hands on them. INCI is diheptyl succinate AND caprylol glycerin/sebacic acid copolymer. 

    I would say no more than 5% isopropyl myristate 
  • CamelCamel Member
    filiz said:
    First of all, thank you for replying. What esters would you recommend? @Camel

    You could replace the olive oil with Natrasil (Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables) which should be much lighter and less sticky. I like to use it in moisturizers/conditioners. You could also replace the jojoba oil with jojoba esters. Another ingredient you might consider researching is C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate. I don't have experience with it, though.

    filiz said:
    Hi, hope you're fine @ketchito ;
    I'm having a hard time finding some silicone alternatives, frankly. 
    What % do you think isopropyl myristate should be reduced to? and If you have any other suggestions that meet the condition, please let me know  
    It is hard to find alternatives to silicones without sacrificing performance. Natrasil is marketed as a silicone alternative, but you definitely won't get the same performance. It's still an option, though. 

    Most sellers suggest using isopropyl myristate at no more than 10%. 
  • filizfiliz Member
    @WarrenChemist thanks for giving me some alternatives 
  • filizfiliz Member
    @Camel
    Thanks for your detailed answer. It was so useful and I have one more question too... Do you know any thickener for this serum. This formula has very low viscosity 
  • kivangelkivangel Member
    @filiz what hair type is this oil for? Because it will be way too heavy for anybody except people with very textured, dry, frizzy, super curly hair. The concentration of oil is much too high. Similar to what others suggested, I would replace big part of the oils with dimethicone, isododecane, etc. Why do you want to increase viscosity? Hair serum being thin is usually a good thing, it improves spreadability. And some are packaged in spray bottles, so low viscosity can be desirable. 
  • Pb610Pb610 Member
    What exactly are you trying to accomplish @filiz? Are you trying to stimulate hair growth, or just condition the hair itself? Please state clearly the result you're aiming for.
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