review my formula

mkarkimkarki Member
in Formulating
Hello all
Please review the following formula for making hair straightener

AQUA

% 79.5

Mono Propylene Glycol

% 4.25

QUATERNIUM-80

% 0.10

AMODIMETHICONE

% 0.40

TOCOPHERYL ACETATE

% 0.50

DISODIUM EDTA

%0.05

PANTHENOL

%0.75

SALICYLIC ACID

%0.15

DMDM HYDANTOIN

%0.30

Polysorbate 80

2%

Isopropyl Myristate

1 %

Hydrolyzed Keratin

2%

Glyoxylic Acid 50%

10%

Comments

  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    What question do you have about the formula?
    Have you made the formula? What were the results?
    What do you want improved?  Was the formula stable?

    Just at a glance, I think Panthenol at .75% is useless and unneeded. 
    I don't see any benefit to including both Salicylic acid and Glyoxylic acid. One acid is fine. 

    But really...what specifically are you asking about?
    Learn to formulate cosmetics
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    What is the pH?

    You need an antifungal preservative too. 
  • mkarkimkarki Member
    Perry said:
    What question do you have about the formula?
    Have you made the formula? What were the results?
    What do you want improved?  Was the formula stable?

    Just at a glance, I think Panthenol at .75% is useless and unneeded. 
    I don't see any benefit to including both Salicylic acid and Glyoxylic acid. One acid is fine. 

    But really...what specifically are you asking about?
    Hello, my question includes getting a hair straightening protein spray, the goal is to straighten the hair by 75% for curly hair, moisturize the hair and repair it.
  • mkarkimkarki Member
    Abdullah said:
    What is the pH?

    You need an antifungal preservative too. 
    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Preservative and antimicrobial
  • mkarkimkarki Member
    Perry said:
    What question do you have about the formula?

    Obtaining final review and approval before starting implementation, based on the purpose of product formulation


    Have you made the formula? What were the results?

    I will start preparing after the discussion here, and I prefer that


    What do you want improved?  Was the formula stable?

    The main objective of the product:

    -Straightening the hair easily and without damage to the scalp and exposure to heat for a long time

    -Use the product before ironing or blow-drying, to avoid damage

    -Directing the product to the customer directly without relying on the salon, or maintaining the hair after the session at home for a longer life


    Just at a glance, I think Panthenol at .75% is useless and unneeded. 
    I don't see any benefit to including both Salicylic acid and Glyoxylic acid. One acid is fine. 

    PANTHENOL

    Do I understand from your observation to increase the percentage or dispense with it?

     SALICYLIC ACID

    Its purpose is to protect hair from sunlight

     Glyoxylic acid

    Its purpose is to re-straighten the hair



    But really...what specifically are you asking about?

    Check the final formula before implementation to achieve the desired goals of the product


     o:) 



  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    If you're looking for a final review before embarking, here is my suggestion.

    Get rid of most of your ingredients. Start simple and then add ingredients as necessary.  Make this formula...

    AQUA
    Mono Propylene Glycol
    QUATERNIUM-80 or AMODIMETHICONE (you don't need both)
    DISODIUM EDTA
    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Methylparaben

    Test it.  Then add ingredients to this formula as needed.

    Panthenol is a claims ingredient. It does nothing noticeable if there are other ingredients like silicones present.  Salicylic acid does not protect hair from sunlight in any noticeable way. 

    I do not believe Glycolic Acid will do much for straightening hair either. However, the suppliers make some claims about it so it might be worth testing a formula with and without Glycolic Acid to see if it actually does anything. 

    But overall, when you are starting a formulation project use FEWER ingredients for your first formula. Don't start with a dozen ingredients because you will have no idea what ingredients are actually having an impact. Add ingredients to solve demonstrated problems. Don't add them because you've been told they will have some effect.

    Learn to formulate cosmetics
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    mkarki said:
    Abdullah said:
    What is the pH?

    You need an antifungal preservative too. 
    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Preservative and antimicrobial
    That is weak for fungi.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    I guess you are trying to reverse engineer OWOW spray. Panthenol, keratin, amodimethicone etc etc are there for marketing. The main component is glyoxylic acid. It’s marketed as ‘formaldehyde free’ but the only reason it’s working is that it releases formaldehyde when heated to 220/230 C. That is why it’s particularly important to use flat iron that heats up to that temperature (not all do). You need to research how much of it is needed for it to be effective and yet don’t cause hair to break. Once you establish that (and other important thing such as required ph) try to make the product with minimum number of ingredients (water, acid, preservatives, ph regulators). And when you are happy with the results add panthenol and alike for marketing at 0.001%
  • mkarkimkarki Member
    Abdullah said:
    mkarki said:
    Abdullah said:
    What is the pH?

    You need an antifungal preservative too. 
    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Preservative and antimicrobial
    That is weak for fungi.
    Do you have a better alternative?
  • mkarkimkarki Member
    Perry said:
    If you're looking for a final review before embarking, here is my suggestion.

    Get rid of most of your ingredients. Start simple and then add ingredients as necessary.  Make this formula...

    AQUA
    Mono Propylene Glycol
    QUATERNIUM-80 or AMODIMETHICONE (you don't need both)
    DISODIUM EDTA
    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Methylparaben

    Test it.  Then add ingredients to this formula as needed.

    Panthenol is a claims ingredient. It does nothing noticeable if there are other ingredients like silicones present.  Salicylic acid does not protect hair from sunlight in any noticeable way. 

    I do not believe Glycolic Acid will do much for straightening hair either. However, the suppliers make some claims about it so it might be worth testing a formula with and without Glycolic Acid to see if it actually does anything. 

    But overall, when you are starting a formulation project use FEWER ingredients for your first formula. Don't start with a dozen ingredients because you will have no idea what ingredients are actually having an impact. Add ingredients to solve demonstrated problems. Don't add them because you've been told they will have some effect.

    That's what I hope for, thanks for the advice
    I will start preparing accordingly, and I will keep you posted on the results


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