Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating review my formula

  • review my formula

    Posted by mkarki on March 22, 2022 at 2:10 pm
    Hello all
    Please review the following formula for making hair straightener

    AQUA

    % 79.5

    Mono Propylene
    Glycol

    % 4.25

    QUATERNIUM-80

    % 0.10

    AMODIMETHICONE

    % 0.40

    TOCOPHERYL
    ACETATE

    % 0.50

    DISODIUM EDTA

    %0.05

    PANTHENOL

    %0.75

    SALICYLIC ACID

    %0.15

    DMDM HYDANTOIN

    %0.30

    Polysorbate 80

    2%

    Isopropyl
    Myristate

    1 %

    Hydrolyzed
    Keratin

    2%

    Glyoxylic Acid
    50%

    10%

    mkarki replied 2 years ago 4 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • oldperry

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 1:46 pm

    What question do you have about the formula?
    Have you made the formula? What were the results?
    What do you want improved?  Was the formula stable?

    Just at a glance, I think Panthenol at .75% is useless and unneeded. 
    I don’t see any benefit to including both Salicylic acid and Glyoxylic acid. One acid is fine. 

    But really…what specifically are you asking about?

  • abdullah

    Member
    March 23, 2022 at 2:46 pm

    What is the pH?

    You need an antifungal preservative too. 

  • mkarki

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 10:07 am

    Perry said:

    What question do you have about the formula?
    Have you made the formula? What were the results?
    What do you want improved?  Was the formula stable?

    Just at a glance, I think Panthenol at .75% is useless and unneeded. 
    I don’t see any benefit to including both Salicylic acid and Glyoxylic acid. One acid is fine. 

    But really…what specifically are you asking about?

    Hello, my question includes getting a hair straightening protein spray, the goal is to straighten the hair by 75% for curly hair, moisturize the hair and repair it.

  • mkarki

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 10:09 am

    Abdullah said:

    What is the pH?

    You need an antifungal preservative too. 

    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Preservative and antimicrobial

  • mkarki

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 10:29 am

    Perry said:

    What question do you have about the formula?

    Obtaining final review and approval before
    starting implementation, based on the purpose of product formulation

    Have you made the formula? What were the results?

    I will start preparing after the discussion
    here, and I prefer that

    What do you want improved?  Was the formula stable?

    The main objective of the product:

    -Straightening the hair easily and without
    damage to the scalp and exposure to heat for a long time

    -Use the product before ironing or blow-drying,
    to avoid damage

    -Directing the product to the customer directly
    without relying on the salon, or maintaining the hair after the session at home
    for a longer life

    Just at a glance, I think Panthenol at .75% is useless and unneeded. 
    I don’t see any benefit to including both Salicylic acid and Glyoxylic acid. One acid is fine. 

    PANTHENOL

    Do I understand from your observation to
    increase the percentage or dispense with it?

     SALICYLIC ACID

    Its purpose is to protect hair from sunlight

     Glyoxylic acid

    Its purpose is to re-straighten the hair

    But really…what specifically are you asking about?

    Check the final formula before implementation
    to achieve the desired goals of the product

     o:) 


  • oldperry

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 1:08 pm

    If you’re looking for a final review before embarking, here is my suggestion.

    Get rid of most of your ingredients. Start simple and then add ingredients as necessary.  Make this formula…

    AQUA
    Mono Propylene Glycol
    QUATERNIUM-80 or AMODIMETHICONE (you don’t need both)
    DISODIUM EDTA
    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Methylparaben

    Test it.  Then add ingredients to this formula as needed.

    Panthenol is a claims ingredient. It does nothing noticeable if there are other ingredients like silicones present.  Salicylic acid does not protect hair from sunlight in any noticeable way. 

    I do not believe Glycolic Acid will do much for straightening hair either. However, the suppliers make some claims about it so it might be worth testing a formula with and without Glycolic Acid to see if it actually does anything. 

    But overall, when you are starting a formulation project use FEWER ingredients for your first formula. Don’t start with a dozen ingredients because you will have no idea what ingredients are actually having an impact. Add ingredients to solve demonstrated problems. Don’t add them because you’ve been told they will have some effect.

  • abdullah

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 1:10 pm

    mkarki said:

    Abdullah said:

    What is the pH?

    You need an antifungal preservative too. 

    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Preservative and antimicrobial

    That is weak for fungi.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    March 24, 2022 at 8:26 pm

    I guess you are trying to reverse engineer OWOW spray. Panthenol, keratin, amodimethicone etc etc are there for marketing. The main component is glyoxylic acid. It’s marketed as ‘formaldehyde free’ but the only reason it’s working is that it releases formaldehyde when heated to 220/230 C. That is why it’s particularly important to use flat iron that heats up to that temperature (not all do). You need to research how much of it is needed for it to be effective and yet don’t cause hair to break. Once you establish that (and other important thing such as required ph) try to make the product with minimum number of ingredients (water, acid, preservatives, ph regulators). And when you are happy with the results add panthenol and alike for marketing at 0.001%

  • mkarki

    Member
    March 26, 2022 at 11:37 am

    Abdullah said:

    mkarki said:

    Abdullah said:

    What is the pH?

    You need an antifungal preservative too. 

    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Preservative and antimicrobial

    That is weak for fungi.

    Do you have a better alternative?

  • mkarki

    Member
    March 26, 2022 at 11:40 am

    Perry said:

    If you’re looking for a final review before embarking, here is my suggestion.

    Get rid of most of your ingredients. Start simple and then add ingredients as necessary.  Make this formula…

    AQUA
    Mono Propylene Glycol
    QUATERNIUM-80 or AMODIMETHICONE (you don’t need both)
    DISODIUM EDTA
    DMDM HYDANTOIN
    Methylparaben

    Test it.  Then add ingredients to this formula as needed.

    Panthenol is a claims ingredient. It does nothing noticeable if there are other ingredients like silicones present.  Salicylic acid does not protect hair from sunlight in any noticeable way. 

    I do not believe Glycolic Acid will do much for straightening hair either. However, the suppliers make some claims about it so it might be worth testing a formula with and without Glycolic Acid to see if it actually does anything. 

    But overall, when you are starting a formulation project use FEWER ingredients for your first formula. Don’t start with a dozen ingredients because you will have no idea what ingredients are actually having an impact. Add ingredients to solve demonstrated problems. Don’t add them because you’ve been told they will have some effect.

    That’s what I hope for, thanks for the advice
    I will start preparing accordingly, and I will keep you posted on the results

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