Face Cream gives everyone tingling sensation...What's wrong?

EugeneEugene Member
in Formulating
Hello dear chemists! So, problem is that my new cream formula gives everyone tingling sensation on skin for less then a minute. No rash or redness. Can you please tell me which component can cause this? 

Formula:
Aqua             36.7%
Hydrosol       28%
Argan oil       10%
Olive oil         6%
Ritamulse      6%
Allantoin       3%
Cucumber extract   3%
Stearin acid   2%
Glycerine       2.5%
Xanthan Gum 0.5%
HMHA            0.1%
LMHA             0.1%
Aloe extract 200x   0.1%
Geogard ECT  1%
Orange EO      1%

Thanks a lot!

Tagged:

Comments

  • FormulatorFormulator Member
    My first guess would be 3% allantoin, it's probably present as undissolved crystals in your cream. Try reducing it to 0.3%.
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    What is the pH? 
    This preservative may not be very effective at pH above 5 and with hydrosol. It wasn't for me.
  • AbdullahAbdullah Member
    Maybe it is 1% essential oil. Try 0.2% and see how it feels.

    Agree with @Formulator
  • evchem2evchem2 Member
    Seconding the 1% Orange EO- I'd go even further and say knock it out completely first and see if you still feel tingling.
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    It could also be the Benzyl Alcohol in the Geogard causing the reaction.
    Learn to formulate cosmetics
  • MondonnaMondonna Member
    What is the final PH of your product? 
  • GraillotionGraillotion Member
    Allantoin is 6X too high...but doubt it would cause the tingling...just be abrasive since that much won't dissolve. 

  • PattsiPattsi Member
    evchem2 said:
    Seconding the 1% Orange EO- I'd go even further and say knock it out completely first and see if you still feel tingling.
    Thirding the 1% Orange EO. :) 
  • abieroseabierose Member
    edited March 11
    Could be a combination of all the above...the Allantoin is way too high and is most likely very abrasive to the skin, making it more sensitive to the high EO% as well as the benzyl alcohol...🤷‍♀️
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    edited March 11
    At that range of Allantoin, you are even above and beyond what is used for OTC under the Skin Protectant OTC Monograph. (That is it would be an OTC DRUG). https://www.federalregister.gov/documents/2003/06/04/03-13751/skin-protectant-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use-final-monograph


    As anyone can attest, Allantoin at the allowable Cosmetic levels (0.5% or less) can still be difficult to solubilize without the proper mixing equipment. To incorporate it at the OTC level usually requires solvents which would make your product far less "natural." Of course, "natural" has much less emphasis in Pharma/OTC.

    More is not always better as in this case.


    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • UrbanxtUrbanxt Member
    Unanimous with Allantoin being the issue. Allantoin must be entered into the formula at a recommended percentage of the water content and not the formula content. It dissolves in water, not oil. 
  • emma1985emma1985 Member
    That is so much Allantoin. I use 0.3% in most cases.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    Urbanxt said:
    Unanimous with Allantoin being the issue. Allantoin must be entered into the formula at a recommended percentage of the water content and not the formula content. It dissolves in water, not oil. 

    It should be used as a final percentage of the FULL Formula, not just the aqueous phase. The goal is to have an effective, safe, and appropriate level in the final retail product.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • ggpetrovggpetrov Member
    Recently I've jumped from 0.5% to 1% Allantoin in my lotions, and have to say that I noticed a very positive change. Of coarse I can't prove it scientifically, but me and my clients have noticed a very strong soothing effect. I've tested it in an aftersun lotion, and it very quickly removed the redness. Also I am heating the water phase to 85 degrees and I don't have any issues with the solubilizing, respectively I haven't noticed recristalization. 

  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    @ggpetrov - you could prove it scientifically.  Just make a batch with the extra Allantoin and a batch without the extra. Then test it (on a blinded basis) to see if you can tell a difference.  It would work best if you had 3 samples. 2 of 1 type and 1 of the other type.  Then see if you can pick out the odd sample.

    Learn to formulate cosmetics
  • ggpetrovggpetrov Member
    edited March 23
    Perry said:
    @ggpetrov - you could prove it scientifically.  Just make a batch with the extra Allantoin and a batch without the extra. Then test it (on a blinded basis) to see if you can tell a difference.  It would work best if you had 3 samples. 2 of 1 type and 1 of the other type.  Then see if you can pick out the odd sample.


    Perry I already did it! My statement isn't just a claim, but it comes from my experience. Anyway, it doesn't counts as the clinical researches do, but it's valuable for me and my clients. Also I have a great impression from the Calendula extract as well as the a-Bisabolol, but it's based only on my oun experiments.

  • emma1985emma1985 Member
    ggpetrov said:
    Perry said:
    @ggpetrov - you could prove it scientifically.  Just make a batch with the extra Allantoin and a batch without the extra. Then test it (on a blinded basis) to see if you can tell a difference.  It would work best if you had 3 samples. 2 of 1 type and 1 of the other type.  Then see if you can pick out the odd sample.


    Perry I already did it! My statement isn't just a claim, but it comes from my experience. Anyway, it doesn't counts as the clinical researches do, but it's valuable for me and my clients. Also I have a great impression from the Calendula extract as well as the a-Bisabolol, but it's based only on my oun experiments.

    Thanks for sharing this. I'm pretty fond of Calendula Extract and Bisabolol myself.
  • DtdangDtdang Member
    @ggpetrov, Would you please show me how to soluble 1% allantoin into water?
    I  have difficulty to soluble 0.5% allantoin into water. I have to warm up the water little bit to soluble 0.5% allantoin. But, later solid allantoin appeared when the temperature going down.
    Thanks in advance.
  • ggpetrovggpetrov Member
    Dtdang said:
    @ggpetrov, Would you please show me how to soluble 1% allantoin into water?
    I  have difficulty to soluble 0.5% allantoin into water. I have to warm up the water little bit to soluble 0.5% allantoin. But, later solid allantoin appeared when the temperature going down.
    Thanks in advance.
    Heat the water to 85 - 90 degrees, so it will completely dissolved. For preventing recrystalization you should cool down the emulsion slowly. If you cool the emulsion fast, a crystals may appear.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    I have seen people try to create a supersaturated solution such as this. They generally fail stability due to crystallization.
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • DtdangDtdang Member
    @ggpetrov! Thank you so much!
    How do you cool down the emulsion slowly? 
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    @Dtdang

    The maximum amount of Allantoin you will be able to dissolve in water and not have it recrystallize is 0.5%.  The key is to not heat your water phase above 55C.  Generally, if you heat it up to 50C with 0.5% Allantoin, it will not recrystallize upon cooling.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • ggpetrovggpetrov Member
    Dtdang said:
    @ggpetrov! Thank you so much!
    How do you cool down the emulsion slowly? 
    I don't have any problems to dissolve 1% Allantoin, but I heat the water phase to 85-90 degrees. After the homogenization, I stir the emulsion with a paddle mixer and I take care to control the temperature to not drop down too fast. For example if the room when you make the emulsions is too cold, or some people force the cool down by cooling the beaker with cold water.
Sign In or Register to comment.