What are the best ingredients for aging skin

ProfessorHerbProfessorHerb Member
edited March 10 in Formulating
I'm looking to create a wrinkle, dry skin and aging skin serum. These are the ingredients that I have access too. Are any on the list ineffective and how many of the ingredients would be needed to create a multi purpose aging serum?
Aloe, Ceremide Complex, CoQ10, Argireline, Matrixyl 3000, Magnesium, Fruit Stem Cells, Green Tea Extract, Sacha Inchi, Ginseng, Gluco Delta Lactone, Vitamin A Acetate, Green Tea Extract, Leucidal, Natrasmooth, Bio Kelp Ferment, Panthenol, Tranexemic Acid, GABA, Hydrolyzed Oats, DMAE, Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C, Alpha Lipoic Acid, Niacinimide Ferulic Acid


  • It depends on what you determine ineffective or efficacy, and also your marketing & budget.

    In terms of product functionality wise, it depends on how you want to define the "wrinkle", "dry" and "aging" to be. How you choose your ingredients can determine performance and how you market.
    • Sometimes normal humectants can relief some fine lines via moisturization temporarily, so that also counts. 
    • For dry skin, do you need a humectant or lipid ingredient? 
    • For aging, how old and what concerns do they have? 
    Some examples: 
    • If with humectants + anti aging, then Natrasmooth + Matrixyl 3000
    • If more serious fine lines, then a humectant + Argireline + Matrixyl 3000
    • If going more Asian Beauty (plant extracts), then Green Tea Extract + Ginseng
    • If going for popular barrier repair trend, then Ceremide Complex &/or Niacinamide + Matrixyl 3000
    • You can choose to add some antioxidants for marketing purposes, such as CoQ10
  • From these ingredients i would say make a niacinamide serum
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    I agree with @jemolian.  All of these are both ineffective at some things and effective at others. You'll need to be more specific.

    I don't think any of these ingredients are particularly effective at anti-aging when formulated into products, but they get good press so they are quite effective in getting people to buy products.

    Of those Niacinamide probably has the best evidence for having some noticeable effect. 

    But really, these are just story ingredients which help convince consumers to spend hundreds of dollars on products that don't do much more than a standard moisturizer.

  • Thank you so much!
  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    I've often recommended a shade tree.  :smiley:
  • UrbanxtUrbanxt Member
    ingredients are fine and you don’t need all or as many. Select a compatible carrier oil. The delivery system is just as important as the ingredients. Also ensure that acid based ingredients are incorporated into an acid based environment and select a good penetration enhancer. 
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    If you want to make a straightforward water-based serum these would be the best core ingredients:

    Barrier Repair:  Ceremide Complex + Niacinamide 
    Fine Lines/Wrinkles:  Argireline + Matrixyl 3000
    Moisturization:  Natrasmooth + Hyaluronic Acid (Multiple Molecular Weights)
    Antioxidant: Ferulic Acid
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals & Clean Beauty arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program/Clean At Sephora/Credo Clean guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
  • GTE is mentioned twice, so I would double check your list.  What form of vitamin C?
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