I am in the process of making a light weight sodium lactate cream. Below is my formula
Water. 75. 2
Grapeseed oil. 7
Caprylic triglycerides. 3
Sodium lactate 5
Propylene glycol 4
cetyl alcohol. 1
sclerotium gum. 1.5
Sepimax Zen 0.5
Hydroxy ethyl cellulose. 0.3
Citric acid/lactic acid to adjust pH
Phenoxyethanol + EHG(Euxyl PE 9010). 1
My question is how do I add the thickeners - sclerotium gum, sepimax zen and HEC.
In my first trial, after emulsification I made a slurry of 1.5% sclerotium gum and then added to the emulsified formula while blending with stick blender.
But I prefer more viscosity and little different texture so I added 0.5% sepimax zen. From what I read about zen, blending will disrupt the gel. So I just added it to the cream, after leaving it for overnight, hand stirred it.
I want the final product to be more firm, so I added 0.3% HEC slurry, left it for few hours.
On hand stirring the following, I could see gel globules here and there.
So now I used my blender for few minutes to get an uniform product. However, I do see few very small gel globules here and there.
P. S I did love the skin feel and I wish to repeat it.
Can anyone please simplify this entire thickeners adding process. Do I add all three in heated oil phase and melt it and then blend after adding Water phase to oil.? Can same shear be used for all three thickeners? Or is there any other way to do then please let me know.