Been working on a recipe with high menthol/methyl salicylate content and made a 100g sample. The menthol and methyl salicylate (15% of recipe) has been incorporated post emulsion and I know this is a huge load to add in at that time, but I thought it would help with preserving the menthol from gassing off. Went through the process, added main oil phase to the water portion, hand stirred the emulsion, added all post emulsion additives, thickened nicely, everything seemed dandy.
But, looking at it two months later, kept in dark conditions in a warehouse cabinet (some flucuating temps but typically on the colder side), it seems to have developed some 'pilling'-- almost like undissolved xanthan gum fisheyes-- and looks to have some instability.
I made a 10% solution with distilled water and got a pH of 5.8, which is in my expected range.
Could there be an ingredient incompatibility am I unaware of or more so a processing error? Any advice is appreciated! Thank you!
Here is the recipe:
|CreamMix (Glyceryl stearate, Cetearyl alcohol, SSL)||5.5|
|Sensiva PA40 (phenylpropanol, caprylyl glycol)||0.75|
|5% lactic acid sol||0.8|
|Sunflower oil ||1.5|
|Alcohol-based plant extracts||0.3|
|Rosemary Essential oil|| |
|Lavender Essential oil|| 0.1||0.1|
|Vitamin E oil||0.2|
|Clove essential oil||2|
Euxyl9010PE (phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin)