lotion recipe has pilling and instability

Been working on a recipe with high menthol/methyl salicylate content and made a 100g sample. The menthol and methyl salicylate (15% of recipe) has been incorporated post emulsion and I know this is a huge load to add in at that time, but I thought it would help with preserving the menthol from gassing off. Went through the process, added main oil phase to the water portion, hand stirred the emulsion, added all post emulsion additives, thickened nicely, everything seemed dandy.

But, looking at it two months later, kept in dark conditions in a warehouse cabinet (some flucuating temps but typically on the colder side), it seems to have developed some 'pilling'-- almost like undissolved xanthan gum fisheyes-- and looks to have some instability. 

I made a 10% solution with distilled water and got a pH of 5.8, which is in my expected range. 

Could there be an ingredient incompatibility am I unaware of or more so a processing error? Any advice is appreciated! Thank you!

Here is the recipe:


Calc
H2059.65
Xanthan gum0.15
Sclerotium gum0.15
Glycerin1.9
Propanediol0.25
Sodium dehydroacetate0.2
CreamMix (Glyceryl stearate, Cetearyl alcohol, SSL)5.5
Sensiva PA40 (phenylpropanol, caprylyl glycol)0.75
5% lactic acid sol0.8
EDTA0.2

GSC
1
Sunflower oil 1.5
Shea butter1.5
Jojoba oil2
Stearic acid1.5
Hempseed oil0.5
Cetyl Alcohol1.5
CBD distillate2.5


Post emulsion:


Alcohol-based plant extracts0.3

Rosemary Essential oil                                  
Lavender Essential oil     0.1
0.1
Vitamin E oil0.2
Clove essential oil2
Methyl Salicylate8
Menthol7

Euxyl9010PE (phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin) 
0.75

Comments

  • hi there 

    well, I don't see a direct incompatibility but sometimes EDTA makes Funny complexion Reactions and I am not Shure about CBD and EDTA. YOu should at least homogenize after adding the "active Phase" due to the fact that you have a lot of oil components there you need to make some small droplets out of them. 


    Although I want to share the information that methyl Salicylate will (at least in Europe) no longer be allowed in Cosmetic Products in concentrations above 0,05999 % (in creams) and you can not sell them in Europe with the start of 2023. so if you developing for European market be aware of that. 

    Maybe someone can give more idears

    Head of Research and Development 
  • @SlingerD First, I'd add the Lactic acid once the emulsion has been formed, in the cool down phase. Then, add some base (like NaOH solution) to bring the pH closer to neutral (that would help convert Stearic acid into Sodium stearate which is an emulsifier, and stabilize the SSL in your CreamMix). Also, 2% of essential oil could be too high to be added post emulsion.
  • ketchito said:
    @SlingerD First, I'd add the Lactic acid once the emulsion has been formed, in the cool down phase. Then, add some base (like NaOH solution) to bring the pH closer to neutral (that would help convert Stearic acid into Sodium stearate which is an emulsifier, and stabilize the SSL in your CreamMix). Also, 2% of essential oil could be too high to be added post emulsion.
    Thanks @ketchito ! I will play around with the pH and reduce my post emulsion oil additions and see what happens. 
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