New research on Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

For those who use this ingredient, just making sure you saw this recent study, which seems to suggest that it can do more harm than good without a stabilizing antioxidant?

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34445461/

"Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) is an L-ascorbic acid precursor with improved stability and ability to penetrate the epidermis. The stability and transdermal penetration of THDC, however, may be compromised by the oxidant-rich environment of human skin. In this study, we show that THDC is a poor antioxidant that degrades rapidly when exposed to singlet oxygen. This degradation, however, was prevented by combination with acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a stabilizing antioxidant. As a standalone ingredient, THDC led to unexpected activation of type I interferon signaling, but this pro-inflammatory effect was blunted in the presence of AZ. Moreover, the combination of THDC and AZ increased expression of genes associated with phospholipid homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation, along with repression of MMP1 and MMP7expression, inhibition of MMP enzyme activity, and increased production of collagen proteins by dermal fibroblasts. Lastly, whereas THDC alone reduced viability of keratinocytes exposed to oxidative stress, this effect was completely abrogated by the addition of AZ to THDC. These results show that AZ is an effective antioxidant stabilizer of THDC and that combination of these products may improve ascorbic acid delivery. This provides a step towards reaching the full potential of ascorbate as an active ingredient in topical preparations."

Comments

  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Simply reading this abstract may sound nice and promising in the ears (or rather eyes :smile: ) of the uneducated.
    I'm sceptical because A: never trust an abstract & read the full text, B: acetyl zingerone goes by the trade name Synoxyl AZ which is manufactured by Syntheon... who funded the publication, and C: I can spot several issues when quickly scrolling through the publication.
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    Pharma said:
    Simply reading this abstract may sound nice and promising in the ears (or rather eyes :smile: ) of the uneducated.
    I'm sceptical because A: never trust an abstract & read the full text, B: acetyl zingerone goes by the trade name Synoxyl AZ which is manufactured by Syntheon... who funded the publication, and C: I can spot several issues when quickly scrolling through the publication.
    I share your skepticism. I see so many citations from "google searches" which wouldn't meet the standards for academic citation.

    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • Well, Miss Uneducated here was aware that the people who wrote the article are trying to sell Synoxyl AZ.   :|  But Syntheon is also trying to sell Vitasynol C, their Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate product.  I did not read the full article nor am I claiming to, but it is a bit risky to publish even an abstract that is critical of one of your own products, unless you think they've done it to essentially force all of their customers to buy both ingredients.  Keep in mind that they are not bundling the two as part of some "system" -- they are still standalone products.  I just wonder if there is any truth to what they've published, regardless of their financial incentive.  
  • SincityfireSincityfire Member
    edited November 2021
    After skimming through it, they make it seem like using Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate alone will do damage, but all they say is that using Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate correlated with the upregulation of some genes that are annotated with interferon-1 production which in turn is associated with inflammation.

    But just because a gene is upregulated doesn't mean that the gene products the gene is annotated to is going to be directly affected. 

    Some things to consider is that this portion of the experiment was done in-vitro using a skin model and that they did not test for actual interferon-1 production in the skin. 
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