Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohols versus Behenyl Alcohol

  • Cetyl/Stearyl Alcohols versus Behenyl Alcohol

    Posted by vidakaramooz on February 23, 2015 at 10:30 pm

    Hello all,

    For hair conditioning formulas, is there a fatty alcohol that works better than others?  Do you think Behenyl Alcohol is a better fatty alcohol for hair conditioners than Cetyl or Stearyl Alcohols?
    I have not worked with Behenyl Alcohol yet so I wanted to get your perspective on that.
    Thank you,
    Vida
    david replied 9 years, 1 month ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • oldperry

    Member
    February 24, 2015 at 1:58 am

    The main difference would be in your product stability.  Cetyl has a lower melting point so it can melt at higher temperatures.  Stearyl Alcohol has a slightly higher melting point and Behenyl Alcohol even higher still.  But most conditioner formulas use a blend of Cetyl and Stearyl Aclohol.  Behenyl alcohol is likely more expensive and doesn’t provide much additional benefit.

  • vidakaramooz

    Member
    February 24, 2015 at 9:46 pm

    Dear Perry.

    I wonder why some formulas include all 3 fatty alcohols: Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, and Cetearyl Alcohol together?   If Cetearyl Alcohol is a combination of both Cetyl and Stearyl Alcohols, why not just using Cetearyl Alcohol by itself (higher amount)?  The Giovanni conditioner ingredient list that I sent to you in my Hair Conditioner Formula question is a good example of that.

    Thank you,

    Vida
  • david

    Member
    February 24, 2015 at 10:03 pm

    2 reasons 

    1. larger companieis use software to calculate INCI and  it is not that smart yet
    2. cetearyl means 50/50 Cetyl /Stearyl if that is not your ratio you should declare them separately
  • vidakaramooz

    Member
    February 25, 2015 at 3:03 am

    Thank you David.    

    Are there any significant conditioning (skin and hair) property differences between Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol?

    This would help me to decide which one of the 3 fatly acids to use and at what ratio?
    Thank you,
    Vida
  • oldperry

    Member
    February 25, 2015 at 2:15 pm

    I doubt anyone could tell much difference in terms of skin / hair conditioning between Cetyl, Stearyl or Cetearyl

  • CosChemFan

    Member
    February 25, 2015 at 7:39 pm

    Hi everyone!

    I’m no professional or mentor like the great @Perry 

    Regards,
    CosChemFan 
  • vidakaramooz

    Member
    February 26, 2015 at 5:59 pm

    Thank you all.  

    Very informative comments.  I appreciate it very much.

    Blessings,
    Vida
  • Iaskedbetter

    Member
    February 26, 2015 at 7:45 pm

    I do not believe “Cetearyl Alcohol” is specifically a 50/50 ratio of cetyl and stearyl. It is supplied as blends of other ratios (30/70 for instance).

  • galina

    Member
    February 27, 2015 at 4:49 am

    For a hair conditioner pure Behenyl Alcohol is too expensive. Best is a commercial blend of Cetearyl Alcohol (30% - Cetyl, 70% Stearyl). Behenyl quats eg. Incroquat Behenyl TMS from Croda give nice conditioning effect without build up.

  • david

    Member
    February 27, 2015 at 2:32 pm

    Iaskedbetter that is true, there are no specific limits for calling it cetearyl alcohol. Even worse is that the mixture stearic/palmitic acid is usually sold under stearic acid.

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