Palm free conditioner bar

I have been experimenting making a palm free conditioner bar with btms80, which is 80% behentrimonium methosulfate and 20% isopropyl alcohol. Up until now most bars have been fairly horrible but yesterday’s bar was not that bad. I aim higher than not that bad. What could I add or change to make this bar slightly more conditioning and still palm free?

25% btms80
45% behenyl alcohol
10% coconut oil
8% shea butter
6% argan oil
2% broccoli seed oil
2% coco caprylate
2% panthenol


  • Should I up the amount of "silicone replacement" liquids. Is there a point of adding a blend of these like PCA Glyceyl Oleate, Isoamyl laurate and castor oil esters along with the broccoli and coco-caprylate or should i stick to one or two of these.

    Add more humectants? Pentylene glycol and/or natural betaine.
  • What do you mean by "horrible" and "not that bad"?
    Let me guess, the hair feel greasy, lank and heavy? 

    In my opinion too much lipid input.
    Increase BTMS, that should make the majority of the formula. Thicken it with some of that thickener and use about 10% lipid only. 

    Something like 40-50% BTMS, 35% Behenyl Alcohol, 10% Lipids, Vit E (do not forget that as you are using plant lipids), [Fragrance and added extras (low inputs) such as glycerin based extracts?]. 

    Give it a try and see.
    It's really about getting the right consistency and feel. Happy formulating!
  • Thank you for commenting Paprik but I don't think you read my post carefully enough. Using 40-50% btms80 would be like using 80-100% btms50. The solution is not to up the btms80 that also bring problems with to much IPA. The bars turn out real weird on the surface. I would describe the feeling my hair had as dry. I am open to using not only Behenyl but also a second non-palm derived solid that is not btms80 or behenyl but I have tried stearic and hydrogenated rapeseed oil and both of those sort of made my hair feel dry and waxy.
  • Esters work a whole lot better than vegetable oils for this type of product. Natrasil is great choice, not sure if its palm free. IPM also works, not sure about palm free.

    I would keep all the following additions to under 3% total.

    10% coconut oil
    8% shea butter
    6% argan oil
    2% broccoli seed oil

    You need to find a non draggy wax like cetyl alcohol. I am not familiar with Behenyl alcohol. If it is similar to cetyl alcohol, try using 60%.
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