3-O-Ethyl ascorbic acid tips & tricks

Hello guys,

I've recently got my hands on 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and wanna start playing with it. However, the information on it is quite scarce and, to be honest, I don't know where to start. All I found is the recommendation to 'dissolve 1g 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid in 1g citric acid buffer (pH 5.5) and then add to water phase'. 
I'll try it that way next week, but I would very much appreciate any advice on how to work with it I can get from people who are more familiar or working with this ingredient.
I am aware that asking 'what do I do with this' is too broad, so, to be more specific, my ultimate goal is to incorporate it into an O/W emulsion at up to 2%.
It costs like a kidney on the black market and I only have 30 g, so the number of screw-ups is quite limited :).
Thank you!

Comments

  • Hi, @Meemcha.

    For some reason, this derivative is still not widely used; thus, very little information about it seems to be available online.

    I saw that a couple of websites describe it as water soluble, in which case I would be tempted to just add it at 1pct to start with and test there.  If you are making 50g samples, that is only 0.5g used/wasted.  May I ask where you found that information about dissolving it in the citric acid mixture first?  I can only imagine it is necessary to do that if the pH of this product is so low that the “shock” of it going into water with a pH of c.7 is too much for it to handle? I really don’t know. 
  • MeemchaMeemcha Member
    edited November 15
    suswang8 said:
    Hi, @Meemcha.

    For some reason, this derivative is still not widely used; thus, very little information about it seems to be available online.

    I saw that a couple of websites describe it as water soluble, in which case I would be tempted to just add it at 1pct to start with and test there.  If you are making 50g samples, that is only 0.5g used/wasted.  May I ask where you found that information about dissolving it in the citric acid mixture first?  I can only imagine it is necessary to do that if the pH of this product is so low that the “shock” of it going into water with a pH of c.7 is too much for it to handle? I really don’t know. 
    Hey @suswang8,

    Thank you for the response! The first time I saw the buffer recommendation is on my supplier's site
    But then, while researching, I found it also here. And this Selco brochure says 'Ethyl Ascorbic Acid can easily be incorporated in cosmetic emulsion and other formulations. It is water soluble. The recommended pH range is 5.0 - 6.0. For better stability and to avoid pH-drift to acidic pH- values the use of 1 % citrate buffer is recommended.'
    I wasn't planning to work around pH, but to play with it in products with pH 5-6. Just trying to understand if and why pH might drift with this material. Either way, I'll make a few different samples and keep them at 30-35 deg. Celsius for some time and see what happens. I'll post the results here in case you are curious :)


  • I'm thinking "1% citrate buffer" means "1% sodium citrate"?  Perhaps one of the experts on here can say for sure.
  • DECIEM has ethyl ascorbic acid in 3 products and they all are in propanediol as a solvent. No water at all.
  • Its water soluble but attention , its stable at ph 5.5 and lower...
  • Its soluble in glycerin and alcohol, using propanadiol just caused bubble in your end product.
    I am more prefer to disolved in glycerin. My end product ph  is 4.5
Sign In or Register to comment.