What is happening with this anhydrous cream?
The formula contains the following: Babassu 29 %, Mango Butter 15%, Murumuru 15%, 10% Myrica wax, 10% Camellia Oil, 10% Hemisqualane, 3% Lauryl Laurate, and 0.5% Lecithin, the rest is heat sensitive oil based extracts (not yet incorporated in this base). The pink cream has 0.10% mica.
Method: I melted all of the above slowly and stirred during melting, then took it off the heat and split it to experiment with.
# 1 (the yellow one in beaker) was left on the table, without further stirring. First two photos show what it looked like the next day.
I thought that cooling it at RT would just result in graininess, not separation or syneresis.
# 3 (the pink) was placed in the fridge and stirred briefly roughly every 15 min until trace.
At trace, I whipped it and placed one jar in the fridge for an additional 45 min. For about a week the top looked smooth. Then, Picture #3 shows what it looked like after a week.
I left one jar at RT (picture #4) after whipping. The top was smooth for a week, then it looked quite sweaty (like #3), but then reabsorbed when left with lid open.
Why are the oils being expelled from the butters? Is this syneresis? The butters also look like they barely hang together. Is the oil to butter ratio off somehow? I made 10 versions of this formula with tweaks, and it happens every time.