What would be a comparable substitute for Isoamyl laurate?

abieroseabierose Member
in Formulating
I have quite a few other esters, some of which are new to me and I haven't tried them yet....but I am out of IL so I thought I'd ask if any of the following could be used instead and if so what to expect as far as textural and viscosity changes:

Isostearyl Isostearate 
Octyldodecanol 
Isononyl Isononanoate 
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Coco-Caprilate/Caprate 

I would like to use something that will feel similar to IL if possible or if I'm better off to just order some more IL.

Thank you!
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Comments

  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    Never worked with C12-15 alkyl benzoate... it should be quite similar.
    Coco-caprylate/caprate is fairly similar (not similar enough for my taste), has a viscosity, spreading etc in the same range. Not quite as 'good' as IL and hence, I like IL more. It feels less greasy and comes with the perk of a short branched side chain.
    The others all have higher viscosities, lower spreading, penetrate/dry not as fast, and are less polar. Even coco-caprylate/caprate isn't really polar compared to IL and alkyl benzoates.
    I would guess, from a theoretical musing, that a blend of C12-15 alkyl benzoate and coco-caprylate/caprate would come closest to IL.
    Becaue I have more coco caprylate than IL in stock and the former is less expensive too, I use it as an IL substitute during trial formulations (notably, coco caprylate has a lower viscosity and higher spreading than coco caprylate/caprate and hence comes even closer to IL... nonetheless, I can still feel a difference).
  • abieroseabierose Member
    Pharma said:
    Never worked with C12-15 alkyl benzoate... it should be quite similar.
    Coco-caprylate/caprate is fairly similar (not similar enough for my taste), has a viscosity, spreading etc in the same range. Not quite as 'good' as IL and hence, I like IL more. It feels less greasy and comes with the perk of a short branched side chain.
    The others all have higher viscosities, lower spreading, penetrate/dry not as fast, and are less polar. Even coco-caprylate/caprate isn't really polar compared to IL and alkyl benzoates.
    I would guess, from a theoretical musing, that a blend of C12-15 alkyl benzoate and coco-caprylate/caprate would come closest to IL.
    Becaue I have more coco caprylate than IL in stock and the former is less expensive too, I use it as an IL substitute during trial formulations (notably, coco caprylate has a lower viscosity and higher spreading than coco caprylate/caprate and hence comes even closer to IL... nonetheless, I can still feel a difference).
    Thank you so much!! I will try subbing out the IL for a blend of Coco Caprylate/Caprate and C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate and see how much of a difference it makes 😀 I appreciate your knowledge!!
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    Alkyl Benzoate is more ‘oily’. It’s one of the heaviest esters. Probably octyldodecanol will be closer. May I ask what is it that you like about isoamyl laurate? I wasn’t impressed by it at all.
  • ngarayeva001ngarayeva001 Member
    Pharma said:
    Never worked with C12-15 alkyl benzoate... 

    @Pharma I recommend to try it. Very versatile. It’s helps silicones mix with essential oils, it’s very polar which can be handy in some cases, it’s cheap and easily available. It helps mineral oil mixing with Cithrol 10gtis. And probably many other things that I am not even aware of.
  • GraillotionGraillotion Member
    edited October 2021
    ngarayeva001  May I ask what is it that you like about isoamyl laurate? I wasn’t impressed by it at all.
    Did you try the 100% IL....or the one that is 90% IL...and 10% something else....forget the name at the moment.... But I HATED that 90/10 blend.

    Hehehe...I can't live without my IL.... and I have them all.

  • abieroseabierose Member
    Graillotion said:
    ngarayeva001  May I ask what is it that you like about isoamyl laurate? I wasn’t impressed by it at all.
    Did you try the 100% IL....or the one that is 90% IL...and 10% something else....forget the name at the moment.... But I HATED that 90/10 blend.

    Hehehe...I can't live without my IL.... and I have them all.

    I am totally in love with it too...I'm just gonna end up ordering some more since I also just ran out of another new-to-me favorite ingredient...pentylene glycol 😁

    @ngarayeva001 I will try subbing the octyldodecanol and see if the feel is similar enough.

  • Anca_FormulatorAnca_Formulator Member
    I don't know which one would be a good substitute without testing the skin feel. When I substitute esters I test the spreadability, volatility, greasiness, absorbtion rate and play time. I also try to match the specific gravity as closely as possible. 
  • GraillotionGraillotion Member
    abierose said:
    Graillotion said:
    I'm just gonna end up ordering some more since I also just ran out of another new-to-me favorite ingredient...pentylene glycol 😁



    Isn't Pentylene magical?  Splish splash!
  • abieroseabierose Member
    Graillotion said:
    abierose said:
    Graillotion said:
    I'm just gonna end up ordering some more since I also just ran out of another new-to-me favorite ingredient...pentylene glycol 😁



    Isn't Pentylene magical?  Splish splash!
    It really is!!
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