Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating How to choose a cationic surfactant for hair conditioner

  • How to choose a cationic surfactant for hair conditioner

    Posted by natasha.acendra on January 21, 2025 at 12:53 pm

    Hi!

    Lately, I’ve been formulating a hair conditioner suitable for all hair types. However, I’ve found myself in a tricky situation: which cationic surfactant should I choose and why? What are the differences between them? and why use them for a specific hair type or purpose?

    I tried using Incroquat™ Brehenyl TMS 25, which is Behentrimonium Methosulfate at 25% and Cetyl Alcohol, and found that it makes the conditioner really thick—almost like a mask. I also tried Quartamin 60 (Cetrimonium Chloride) blended with Cetyl Alcohol, which reduced the viscosity but lost that luxurious feel that BTMS provided. (I have to say that in both blends i used polyquaternium 37, wich adds considerable viscosity to the product)

    I have other ingredients I haven’t tried yet, such as:

    • Dehyquart C4046 (Cetearyl Alcohol, Dipalmitoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, and Ceteareth-20)
    • Behentrimonium Chloride
    • Cetrimonium Methosulfate

    I’d love to hear your practical lab knowledge about which surfactant to use in a specific situation and why. I’d appreciate it if you could share your experience formulating a hair conditioner with these cationic surfactants 🙂

    ozgirl replied 8 hours, 21 minutes ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • ozgirl

    Member
    January 21, 2025 at 4:42 pm

    Have you considered BTMS-50. It has a higher percentage (50%) of the cationic and less of the fatty alcohol with some butylene glycol. You can use less to get the same conditioning and because there is less fatty acid it won’t be as thick.

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