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Adhesion issues in powder makeup
I’m new to makeup formulation and I’m trying to make a mineral powder without titanium dioxide or zinc. I managed to achieve decent coverage when applied with a finger, but when I try to use a brush, hardly any powder sticks to the skin. Can anyone recommend an ingredient or technique to help with this issue? I thought about incorporating a very small amount of vitamin E or glycerin.
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4 Replies
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Can you provide your ingredient list? Hard to know what could be the issue without that information!
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I’ve tried many different formulas, but I’m always using some combination of these ingredients: kaolin, mica, magnesium stearate, sericite, talc, and diatomaceous earth. Kaolin, sericite, or talc usually act as the base. The other ingredients I add as needed to enhance performance or improve sensory aspects.
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I’ve never used kaolin as a base for powder foundation, but I’ve used sericite and talc with no additives needed for adhesion. How can you tell it’s an adhesion issue? TiO2 provides opacity for pigments, creating coverage vs. just tinting the skin with the color of the pigments, so I’m wondering if it’s a coverage issue.
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The reason I think it has to do more with adhesion is that the powder acts the same as one with titanium dioxide when applied and blended with a finger or a sponge. It also has nearly identical coverage. When applied with a brush, however, it doesn’t seem to stick to the skin and instead stays on a brush or creates fallout all around. I’ll mention that the ingredients I’ve been using come from a few different cosmetic ingredients companies and seem to have higher opacity than other kaolins or talcs I’ve tried.
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