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O/W emulsion water leakage issue
Hi!
I made a moisturizer with a high level of BHA.
I used Aristoflex BLV (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) and Xanthan Gum as thickeners and the main emulsifier is polysorbate 60. I did trouble-shooting experiments which were increasing the emulsifier level and thickener level but eventually (in 1-2 weeks) saw the water droplets on the surface or air pocket in the moisturizer.If it was an oil leaking issue, then I can understand because the emulsification didn’t work well. But since water droplets are coming out from the O/W emulsion system, what causes this?
Aristoflex BLV and gum are strong at electrolytes and low pH
What makes water kicking in the O/W emulsion?Another possibility is Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate in the moisturizer.
Normally, fermented extract makes the emulsion unstable.
I premixed BHA with polyols and added it into a water phase, then did emulsification.
(I added BHA in the oil phase and did emulsification, but I feel like it wasn’t that stable)
Please share your insight.
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6 Replies
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hmm can you share how much Tickener you are using? Sometimes if you have to mutch emulsifier and thickener the water is squeezed out of the structure.
sorry don’t have a better idea from what you wrote. to give better help we would need at least general levels of oil phase/water Phase/thickener/emulsifier ratios.
another thing can be the ph of your formulation maybe it is to low for the emulsifier and xanthan gum doesn’t like ph that is to low as well.
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@banyaboriforever Without knowing your formula it’s very hard to give a good solution. Are you sure those are water droplets? Any chance that might have been condensation?
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ketchito said:@banyaboriforever Without knowing your formula it’s very hard to give a good solution. Are you sure those are water droplets? Any chance that might have been condensation?….or squalane.
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The oil phase % is less than 10% and the thickener level is at 0.4%.
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Gordof said:hmm can you share how much Tickener you are using? Sometimes if you have to mutch emulsifier and thickener the water is squeezed out of the structure.
sorry don’t have a better idea from what you wrote. to give better help we would need at least general levels of oil phase/water Phase/thickener/emulsifier ratios.
another thing can be the ph of your formulation maybe it is to low for the emulsifier and xanthan gum doesn’t like ph that is to low as well.
I used 1% of polysorbate 60
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hmm ok, I would say thickener and emulsifier can not be the reason. with 0,4 and 1 % they are not to high. what about the ph of the formulation?
If you think it would be the reddish Ferment did you try it without that ingredient to see if the problem still is there?
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