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Emollients that are solvents in relation to very sensitive skin.
Sometimes my light (intellect) is dim, and it comes on very slowly, but I usually get there eventually.
I co-developed a deodorant (emulsified cream) for ultra sensitive skin, with myself being the ultra sensitive test subject. As I, with the help of my intellectual sounding boards, have finally come up with a possible conclusion. (Let me preface by saying, the current product is a 98% reduction in irritation over ANY commercial non-aerosol product I have ever tried.) The conclusion I/we have arrived at, is that some of the emollients be sold are also strong solvents. These strong solvents cannot distinguish what we want solvated, hence they are sometimes doing their work on our sebum. In a situation where skin is very sensitive, the reduction/removal of this sebum protection can lead to enhanced irritability from ingredients we would not normally consider irritations.
So if this is correct…(no guarantee…still in theory stage)… What are some of the best emollients for a deo…. (for me….best would be dry, and possibly even volatile) that bring the emolliency without bringing the solvent aspect? Do they exist?
Here is what I have on hand, but open to new things….but easier to work with what I have: (And yes…some of these are just straight up solvents!)
D5Isoamyl lauratelauryl laurate
Cetearyl IsononanoateIsononyl IsononanoateIsostearyl IsostearateDicaprylyl Carbonate
IPM
IsododecaneUndecane and TridecanePPG-15 Stearyl EtherC12-13 Alkyl LactateCaprylyl MethiconeCetyl EthylhexanoateCetyl palmitate
I did leave out some other common ones I have…that I feel were too oily (like C12-15 AB, CCT, CCC, etc.
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6 Replies
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Well to answer my own question…
The strong solvent emollients are EXTREMELY IRRITATING to my pits. I thought I was going to have to check into a burn unit after apply Cetiol Ultimate to my armpit.
After wearing out the DHL driver, from Thailand to Hawaii….I have found some of the most delightful emollients….and way too many disgusting ones.
My keepers are…and in order of most favorite to least:
.5 (point 5) cSt highly volatile dimethicone
D5
ETHYLHEXYL (Octyl) ISONONANOATE ….and if ANYONE can link me a small MOQ supplier of this…I would be eternally grateful!!!! (preferably USA)
Dicaprylyl CarbonateIsononyl Isononanoate
honorable mention….for MUCH richer applications:
Isostearyl Isostearate
And I am trying to learn to love… C12-15 AB.
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Could you expand on your thoughts on Isononyl Isononanoate and isostearyl isostearate?
is Isononyl Isononanoate one that you would put in the disgusting category?
What were the pros/cons of these two and which applications do you think they’d be best suited for?
And what did you like so much about D5?
I am happy with c12-15 but i like experimenting…
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btw have you ever tried Cetyl Ethylhexanoate?
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GeorgeBenson said:btw have you ever tried Cetyl Ethylhexanoate?
Yes…notes say: Oily and slow absorbing.
My skin is pretty good at making EVERYTHING appear as slow absorbing. I can test the same emollient on my other half…and poof…it is gone. Put it on me…and it will puddle for 15 min. So if it disappears quickly on me…you are already in a special category.
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GeorgeBenson said:Could you expand on your thoughts on Isononyl Isononanoate and isostearyl isostearate?
is Isononyl Isononanoate one that you would put in the disgusting category?
What were the pros/cons of these two and which applications do you think they’d be best suited for?
And what did you like so much about D5?
I am happy with c12-15 but i like experimenting…
Isononyl Isononanoate …is a much lighter texture than isostearyl isostearate. Simply put….I would add isostearyl isostearate….to anything where the word ‘rich’ or ‘richness’ was in the marketing.
In the back of my mind….(and I had seen this once before on an inci)…and I have not put this together yet….as I am working on something else…but I envision perfection as…. 2 parts Dicaprylyl Carbonate with one part Isononyl Isononanoate. Of course the supporting cast will make all the difference. Keeping in mind…I am drawn to the non greasy…lite as air…non shiny type things….. So, you might hate that!
D5….the volatility (without irritation). But hey….just got something that takes that to a whole new level.
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@Graillotion I always seem to have very similar opinions to your observations and favorite ingredients. I’ve been playing around with some new stuff from MSR the past few days and just this morning (before seeing your post) wrote down a concept formulation with Dicaprylyl Carbonate being the larges part of the oil phase and IsoN-IsoN being in there at about that ratio ????
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