Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Syndet/shampoo bar too hard with Sodium lauroyl glutamate vs SCS

  • Syndet/shampoo bar too hard with Sodium lauroyl glutamate vs SCS

    Posted by deneuxben on September 11, 2020 at 3:01 pm

    Hello !

    I have been working with sodium coco sulfate to make a syndet bar and I am now moving to sodium lauroyl glutamate (because it has low pH and i don’t have to adjust)
    But when I duplicate the formula swapping one for the other I
    have VERY different results in terms of texture during the process.

    For example when with a formula with SCS it gives me a
    soft enough dough at 40°C I can press to make the bar, if I use the same
    formula with Sodium lauroyl glutamate it gives me a much harder dough and also
    becomes crumbly.

    Typical Formula:

    Sodium lauroyl glutamate (powder) 82%
    brassicyl isoleucinate esylate
    (and) brassica alcohol 
    5%
    Squalane 13%

    I kept if anhydrous under some advice, for the bar no to be too sticky (so it does not tear when left on watery surface)

    Process:

    I heat up the emulsifier and squalene to 70°C and then
    add the surfactant, mix until it makes a paste. Cool down to 40°C and then mold
    with manual press.

    Here at 40°C like I
    said it is too hard to mold (whereas with SCS this formula will be fine, too much on the softer side even….). I tried increasing squalene up to 23% but then it
    becomes very sticky

    Do you know why it behaves that way, and what could be a solution for me to get a soft enough dough at 40°C that I can mold with a manual press ?
    Thanks for the help ! ????
    deneuxben replied 4 years ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • vbolig

    Member
    November 5, 2020 at 2:25 pm

    have you tried with SCI instead? 

  • deneuxben

    Member
    November 5, 2020 at 2:31 pm
    Hi,
    no, it is not accepted in organic certification, so I have to use this one ::smile: 

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