Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Slipperiness in Shampoo

  • Slipperiness in Shampoo

    Posted by sallychampa on April 24, 2018 at 3:03 am

    I am having a hard time formulating a shampoo that has a good feel of slipperiness.  The foam seems to be good but I have to use a lot of the product to feel that I have anything on.  It seems a bit dry, not enough slip and glide.  I am creating a formula to sell.  I have also done calculations for the active matter in the surfactants. Hopefully that makes sense.  My formula is:
    Phase A
    Water 34%
    Glycerin 4%
    Hydroxypropyl Guar 1%
    Silk Protein 1%

    Phase B
    Decyl Glucoside 14%
    Coca Betaine 10%
    Cetyl Alcohol 2%
    Shea Butter 2%
    Glycerol Oleate 2%

    Phase C
    Lavendar Hydrosol 15%
    Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Noodle 4%
    Stearic Acid 2%
    Dimethicone 3%
    Panthenol 2%
    Rhiodola 1%
    Aloe extract .5%
    Lotus extract .5%
    Fragrance 1%
    Phenoxyethenol 1%

    belassi replied 6 years, 7 months ago 6 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • ozgirl

    Member
    April 24, 2018 at 3:26 am

    There seem to be a lot of ingredients in this formula that are not usually used in shampoos.

    Why do you have cetyl alcohol, shea butter, stearic acid and dimethicone in your formula? These ingredients are best used in your conditioner and may be detrimental to the performance of your shampoo.

  • sallychampa

    Member
    April 24, 2018 at 3:48 am

    I’m trying to create a moisturizing shampoo.  Cetyl alcohol, shea butter is for moisture and stearic acid and dimethicone is for slipperiness.  Many shampoos on the shelf use these ingredients.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    April 24, 2018 at 4:01 am

    PEG-90M for slip and as @ozgirl said those ingredients aren’t needed here.

  • belassi

    Member
    April 24, 2018 at 4:40 am

    This is more like a weird skin cream than a shampoo.
    Surfactants are the key to a great shampoo. The observant amongst us have noticed that decyl glucoside (14% in your formula) has crummy sensorials. 
    Better:-

    Phase A
    Water 34%
    Glycerin 4%
    Hydroxypropyl Guar 1%
    Silk Protein 1%

    Phase B
    ALES 14% (or Plantapon APB)
    Coca Betaine 10%
    Glycerol Oleate 1% (or Lamesoft PO 65)

    Phase C
    Lavender Hydrosol 15%
    Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Noodle 4%
    Panthenol 2%
    Rhiodola 1%
    Aloe extract .5%
    Lotus extract .5%
    Fragrance 1%
    Phenoxyethenol 1%

    Phase D
    Cost savings 10%

  • Chemist77

    Member
    April 24, 2018 at 5:07 am

    @Belassi I had seen that glucoside and trust me I knew that you will enlighten again. ☺️☺️

  • em88

    Member
    April 24, 2018 at 7:43 am

    Nice re-formulation @Belassi
    Looking at the Plantaren APB composition, it should do a good job alone.

  • sallychampa

    Member
    April 24, 2018 at 5:47 pm

    Thank you so much.  I will try this.  It is interesting that many shampoos are adding oils like shea butter, argan oil, avocado oil.  I know the oils can reduce the foam.  Is it more of a marketing thing that manufacturers are adding butters and oils?

  • sallychampa

    Member
    April 24, 2018 at 6:11 pm

    What about using Plantapon LGC instead of Plantaren ABP?

  • em88

    Member
    April 25, 2018 at 6:05 am

    I think those oils are in a very low quantity just for marketing purpose. 

  • belassi

    Member
    April 25, 2018 at 4:40 pm

    @em88 - thanks. Yes, if using APB I would omit some other components too, EG the glyceryl oleate. @sallychampa, yes you could use LGC Sorb but then you would need to use additional thickeners, and LGC is synergistic with disodium cocoamphoacetate so you’d be better off reformulating to use a three-surfactant combo.

  • sven

    Member
    April 25, 2018 at 7:17 pm

    @belassi why would you take out the glyceral oleate? And would you substitute with lamesof

  • belassi

    Member
    April 25, 2018 at 7:50 pm

    If using APB the oleate is unnecessary, because it is already part of the surfactant combo. It is possible to simply dilute APB to obtain an excellent shampoo; CAPB acts as a thickener. Lamesoft makes a good addition, at 1% the effect is quite noticeable. I also like to use Polyquart H-81 at 1%, it gives a volumising / smoothing effect. Butters and oils, for me, are something I don’t want in a shampoo.

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