Help with an SPF15 serum formula

Hi all!

I'm looking at creating an SPF15 serum for personal use - the formula is from the Institute of Personal Care Science:

Water to 100%
Glycerine 5%
Keltrol CG-SFT 0.6%
XPCoco65 20%
Dermofeel Sensolve 6%
Fluidifeel Easy 3%
Ephemer 1%
Naticide 1%
Dermofeel Toco70 0.5%

They indicate that if you can't get XPCoco65 you can use 13% microfine zinc oxide dispersed in 7% coco caprylate/caprate - I don't have coco caprylate/caprate and am trying to figure out what can be substituted.

It is my understanding that it is an emollient with silicone-like skin feel. Could I use a silicone alternative like Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables? Or would it be possible to simply make a dispersion in something like Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides?

The zinc oxide powder I have is the Z-Cote HP1 which is oil soluble.

Many thanks in advance!


  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    You can use either CCT or C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate as a carrier for the ZnO
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details
  • @MarkBroussard thanks so much! 
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