Balm hacking

JPSJPS Member
in Formulating
I've been making face balms for years now that all incorporate some form of butter (shea/mango/kokum, etc). The issue I have is that the product will eventually get grainy with weather temperature fluctuations. I've tried oil + beeswax alone and it's just too greasy overall and risks getting cracked or is too soft.

So, I'm thinking of taking another route and using my oils mixed with an ester as the thickener like Lauryl Laurate. Can you share any experience with using this ingredient? Any general thoughts of thickening oils into a balm/jelly that's more stable overall? Any general balm recipe tips? 

Thank you! 
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Comments

  • DeedeeUkuleleDeedeeUkulele Member
    I don't have experience with Lauryl Laurate but I've been experimenting with cleansing balms for a while. I've found polyethylene to be a good, non-greasy thickener. I've also tried Essachem BW (behenyl olivate), which purportedly gels oils at 8%. It barely gelled when I tried it but you might have more success.

    You might want to look into cera bellina wax as well. It's a beeswax derivative that also supposedly gels oils.
  • JPSJPS Member
    Nice, thank you! I was actually looking at this great blogpost re: cera bellina wax. I may try that out for more of an ointment finish: https://www.humblebeeandme.com/quick-guide-cera-bellina-liquid-oil-ratios/

    Good luck with the cleansing balms! Are you wanting the formula to rinse off into a milk as well? That's something I'd be interested in experimenting with too after I get this balm down :)
  • DeedeeUkuleleDeedeeUkulele Member
    JPS said:
    Good luck with the cleansing balms! Are you wanting the formula to rinse off into a milk as well? That's something I'd be interested in experimenting with too after I get this balm down :)
    Yep, that's the plan! Just perfecting the ratios for texture and thickness and I'm good to go. Let me know if you have questions RE: cleansing balms!
  • JPSJPS Member
    DeedeeUkulele said:
    JPS said:
    Good luck with the cleansing balms! Are you wanting the formula to rinse off into a milk as well? That's something I'd be interested in experimenting with too after I get this balm down :)
    Yep, that's the plan! Just perfecting the ratios for texture and thickness and I'm good to go. Let me know if you have questions RE: cleansing balms!
    Thanks so much! Will do :)!
  • EVchemEVchem Member
    I love the feel of lauryl laurate, it  does melt at body temp which is a nice effect but I've never tried it in a balm. If you do use it I'm interested in hearing how it plays out.
  • JPSJPS Member
    EVchem said:
    I love the feel of lauryl laurate, it  does melt at body temp which is a nice effect but I've never tried it in a balm. If you do use it I'm interested in hearing how it plays out.
    Nice! I'll let you know. How have you used lauryl laurate / in what formulations? o/w w/o etc? I'm wanting to try it with just an oil phase..
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