Looking for a dry medium/high polarity ester or oil

Trying to develop an anhydrous oil 'fast absorbing' gel  that meets the following requirements:
- client wants ingredients to not be listed on the Whole Foods Body care restricted list (https://www.wholefoodsmarket.com/premium-body-care-unacceptable-ingredients
- really need something light/dry that rubs in quickly
- ideally not too expensive (not looking to pay more than ~60/kg)

Any suggestions?


  • Isoamyl laurate and coco-caprylate/caprate are pretty light feeling with quick absorption.  
    Cosmetic Product Development
    Sussex Research Laboratories Inc.
  • I used the isoamyl laurate that's not bad I just don't have a ton of it
    I do have the coco-caprylate just not sure if it's polar enough, but best way to find out is to try it! Thanks
  • I like coco caprylate and I recently bought butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, which is quite nice polar medium to light. Butylene glycol in that list but the ester isn’t (if it works that way).
  •  @ngarayeva001 I hope so! I'm being a little cheeky  (the list says no polyamide-8 so I'm using polyamide-3  for my oil gel)
  • Wow I can't believe the list of unacceptable ingredients at Whole Foods. I never checked theirs out.. WOW
    Cosmetic Product Development
    Sussex Research Laboratories Inc.
  • PerryPerry Administrator, Professional Chemist
    @JonahRay - and the list was put together by someone who clearly doesn't know much about chemistry!  Cetrimonium chloride is out but you can use Cocotrimonium Chloride.

  • And why is coco caprylate better than octyldodecanol? Both are esters. Both don’t grow on trees.
  • PharmaPharma Member, Pharmacist
    edited September 2019
    Octyldodecanol is a Guerbet alcohol and the product of a harsher chemical reaction using a less "eco-friendly" catalyst and commonly also requires solvent extractions whereas the synthetic route for coco caprylate is a tick shorter and involves "greener" reaction steps (though often also a not so "eco-friendly" catalyst) and can be done without solvents. For both, the raw materials grow on trees (or on grainfields) ;) . BTW, in both cases, the used catalysts are added in small amounts and recycled ;) .
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