Brainstorm: What ingredients and are good for eye cream to remove dark circle and puffy eyes?

I am starting to collect information for my first eye cream. Please share with me your experiences. Thanks in advance.


  • It’s a very interesting topic. My understanding is that eye creams are marketing trick. Skin under eyes needs the same ingredients as skin in other areas of face. All you want is exclude potential irritants, actives such as salicylic acid and probably you don’t need a lot of oil. I thought caffeine is good for under eye area but apparently it’s efficacy isn’t proven by any serious publication. I have not been using eye creams for a year already and noticed no difference. 
  • @ngarayeva001 thank you so much.
    oils 7% plus 5% emulsifier 
    what emulsifier do you recommend? 
  • @ngarayeva001, I know only one CreamMaker green coffee emulsifier 
    but it contains stearic acid. It can causes soaping effects 
    so, I have to use the dimenthicone to remove soaping effect 

  • The big problem with cosmetics is that the face skin cells renew themselves every month or so
    but dark circles and wrinkles remain

    so either the DNA or its epigenetic surroundings have been damaged.

    Only about localized whiteners might help with dark circles.
  • @Gunther, unfortunately for me dark circles are genetic. I had them since I remember myself and now my young daughter (who looks very much like me) has them. So dark circles are very much like pores.  The only thing that can be done is preventing them from getting worse, which is using sunscreen. Regarding whiteners, you will not find them in comercial products marketed for eyes, for a very simple reason, they often irritate thin skin around eyes. 
  • @Dtdang, I guess you have access to makincosmetics (CremMaker green coffee is their product). I have many emulsifiers that I like. If you don’t want to deal with soaping effects and silicones use polymer emulsifiers. Makingcosmetics has GelMaker EMU. It’s super easy to use and it tolerates electrolytes better than many of emulsifiers (even sepiplus 400). I also love Sepinov EMT sold by lotioncrafter but it’s less ‘easygoing’ you need to watch what are you adding to your formula. They both can be used as the only emulsifiers or you can add them to a conventional formula as rheology modifiers. If you want to add silicony slip without silicones it’s sepiplus 400. There’s also emulthix but it’s based on dimethicone polymers.
  • @ngarayeva001 and @Gunther, thank you so much for sharings. Polymer emulsifier is general name? I will google to find it and will try. Now I believe that formulation is necessary to combine natural and chemical (synthetic) ingredients for the best.

  • Go to makingcosmetics and select polymer emulsifiers. They are used alone to form a gel or together with conventional emulsifiyers and fatty acids as rheology modifiyers. Sepinov EMT is my favorite (but it’s lotioncrafter). Aristoflex AVC - great texture but doesn’t tolerate electrolytes. Sepiplus 400 and Emulthix are more ‘silicony’. GelMaker EMU is super easy to use and relatively electrolyte resistant. I ordered GelMaker Rheo but it will be delivered next week. I will let you know if it’s good or not. In general polymer emulsifiers are great. No soaping, no need for silicones, much better texture.
  • @ngarayeva001 thank you so much 
  • @ngarayeva001 I just find these herbs that may be best for eye cream 
    jojoba oil
    rose hip oil
    licorice root extract 
    But do I need babassu oil or Shea butter?

  • For grease faults 
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    edited November 2018

    Dark circles under the eyes are actually due to a couple of issues:

    (1)   The skin under the eyes is thinner than the skin on the rest of the face
    (2)   There are a large number of tiny blood vessels under the eyes in a contoured orbital.

    Combine thin skin with a large number of blood vessels:  Dark circles under the eyes.

    Various approaches include ingredients that are considered vasodilators to enhance blood circulation under the eyes to reduce the dark rings plus a color foundation.  In reality, nothing really works that well as the problem is not the dermis per se, but the vessels carrying blood in a thin skin area.  It is virtually impossible to "correct" this problem with a topical cosmetic product.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    See website for details
  • @MarkBroussard, thank you so much for great inputs.

  • I don’t have much experience with babassu oil but shea butter is commonly used in commercial products for under eye area. By the way a little of petrolatum would not hurt either if you don’t mind it. Regarding rosehip oil, I like it a lot but it is too prone to oxidation. Jojoba, squalane and shea butter is a good combination.
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