I'll take Vitamin C as a typical example of an unstable active. Quite stable when dry, the minute you make an aqueous solution of it, the activity disappears. Oxidation appears to be the culprit. And so, in my latest design, I'm using a free oxygen radical scavenger to help preserve the activity.
But here's a question:
In an aqueous solution, where is this free oxygen coming from? The oxygen atoms are bound to the hydrogen atoms by powerful bonds. Getting oxygen from a water molecule involves releasing hydrogen. So it's not that. Presumably it is the dissolved oxygen.
Therefore I ask this: in order to remove free oxygen radicals from our formulae, should we not only use RO water, but also boil it immediately before use, to drive off the dissolved oxygen?
Cosmetic Brand Creation. Concept to name to IMPI search to logo and brand registration. In-house graphic design inc. Pantone specs. Cosmetic label and box design & graphics.
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perm lotions are a good example of this; the thioglycolic acid in the perm will readily pull the oxygen from the air, creating a pressure differential between the inside and the outside of the container, and if the head space is relatively large (e.g. if the container is partially filled) this causes the sides of the container to warp
permanent dyes, which are usually high viscosity and non-Newtonian liquids, are also a good example, as oxidation in this case causes visible discoloration of the product; because the product is non-fluid, the rate of oxygen diffusion through the product is very slow/zero, and oxidation only occurs near any surfaces exposed to air
See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
Can you explain, please?
See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
Thanks for your explanation.
See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com
Hi Belassi,
Have you tried using vitamin C glycoside? This is claimed to be a slow release, stable form of vitamin C that I understand is quite popular.
http://naturalsociety.com/can-this-little-known-pine-bark-solve-skin-aging/
http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Formulation-Science/Study-suggests-pine-bark-extract-contributes-to-skin-hydration-and-reduces-pigmentation
I made a 500g test batch a few days ago and the pine bark extract turned a nice pink/beige colour when the pH was 6. Airless container
L-Ascorbyl 2-Phosphate 6-Palmitate Sodium (Apprecier) is the main active, with pure glycyrrhizic acid and the pine bark extract as the other two. They all have different anti-melanocyte action. It's just a guess, but I am hoping the combination may be synergistic.
Hi Belassi,
Out of curiosity and because I am new to this site, please could you explain to me why you would discount using ascorbyl glucoside. Is it based on cost and if so, how much cheaper would it need to be to gain your interest.
This would be very interesting for me to understand as a chemist interested in cosmetic ingredients.
By test results, you mean in terms of formulating well, because my understanding (which many be misinformed) is that the concentration of vitamin C will be very low.
Excellent. Thanks for the clarification Belassi!