Ethoxydiglycol: Why is it used in Vitamin C serums?

ZinkZink Member
edited August 2016 in Advanced Questions
I've seen a lot of L-Ascorbic Acid based Vitamin C serums use extreme amounts of Ethoxydiglycol, ranging from 50 to 10%.

At pH < 3 Vitamin C shouldn't have any issue penetrating the skin, so I don't quite understand the reasoning. It also doesn't eliminate the "stickiness" that high % ascorbic acid can lead to in leave on formulas.

Reducing the water concentration can help stability, and skin feel can be slightly improved, but beyond that I don't get it and would be concerned with long term side effects - even liver damage. Ferulic acid is also better soluble in glycerin or propylene glycol.
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Comments

  • PharmaSpainPharmaSpain Member, PCF student
    edited August 2016
    Normally it is used as penetration enhancer. There are studies that shows that AA can penetrate the skin but i didn´t see the % of AA that actually penetrate. You say AA can do it without any issue at ph<3... There is any study that shows 100% AA penetrates easily so there is not need of penetration enhancers or at least there is not improvement?
    In the other hand I have to say i didn´t read neither any study that shows how Ethoxydiglycol helps to AA so I would be interesting to read it if you have it.

    I have in my "to-read list" this patent. Maybe it can help:

    http://www.google.com/patents/US8053469
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