Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Help me interpret my cream results from a consumer perspective.

  • Help me interpret my cream results from a consumer perspective.

    Posted by graillotion on October 15, 2020 at 5:32 am

    I am working on a face cream….which is a foreign concept to me….but age is sneaking up, hence the cream. Let me start with, I have naturally oily face skin, and skin that does not absorb heavier oils well, therefore I dislike oily feeling products.  So my face cream has an oil phase of about 10%, using very light quick absorbing natural oils, primarily rosehip and raspberry seed.

    So I made two identical formulas, with the only difference being one included 3% Penstia.  INCI: Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer.

    This was added with the thought that it would enhance the ‘first touch feel’ of the product.  However, somehow in my ignorance and propensity for reading, and asking questions, I seem to have stumbled onto a pretty nice feeling product, without it.  (Multiple emulsifiers, and cascading esters.)  Since the formula was already pretty silky, I could detect almost no difference, and very little enhancement of the ‘first touch feel’ I was looking for.  Certainly a level of difference where very few consumers could detect a difference.

    So the Penstia did not change what I was looking for, but it did make a change.  Now I need to determine, from a customer perspective if this is a positive or negative change.  I applied the two formulas each to one half of my face.  20-30 minutes after application, when I ran my dry fingers across each side of my face, the side with the Penstia cream, my finger tips had a lite sheen of oil on them.  The other side, almost none.  So I concluded that the Penstia had slowed the absorption of the oils.  The Penstia side also left the skin shinier.  Since the primary emulsifier is Montanov 202, the cream does not naturally leave a lot of gloss.

    So my question (finally) is…. is the slower absorption an enhancement or a detraction?  To me….someone ignorant of facial creams, I want the cream to absorb.  To my Korean other half….who has used every name brand cream one can imagine, she likes the gloss, and the slight oil covering left on the skin.

    I realize everyone has their own preference, so what I am asking….is what would the 51+% of people prefer?  A marketing question/viewpoint.

    Thank You.

    natasha3211 replied 3 years, 5 months ago 5 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    October 15, 2020 at 2:38 pm

    You would have to conduct a marketing study.

  • jemolian

    Member
    October 16, 2020 at 12:16 am

    It depends on the demographic you are marketing to.

    If you are marketing to the Koreans, they are fine with the slightly glossy or so called “dewy” look that is normally achieved with makeup. 

    For the rest, they might be more concerned about the “absorption”, as the look of the product on the skin might be part of the aspect of said “absorption”. Some people might also regard the “dewy” look as greasy. 

    I’d say the only way is to ask the demographic, for example via reddit for their preference in the “finish” of the product. 

  • graillotion

    Member
    October 16, 2020 at 12:42 am

    Hehe…. @jemolian, you know my issues…as I split sales between Korea and the US.

    Early samples are on the way to Korea, arriving this week…I should have feedback soon.

    My head says….make a day cream that completely absorbs, and a night cream…that takes a little longer.

  • jemolian

    Member
    October 16, 2020 at 12:58 am

    I think it’s fine if you split it this way. Remember to try on different skin types, perhaps the people with dry skin might not have the “gloss” issue or a lessened version of it.

    I don’t think i’ve seen you mentioned about the split sales though, haha.  

  • natasha3211

    Member
    October 18, 2020 at 10:18 am

    You need to get good information for your face cream 

    https://www.blendsmartreviews.com/what-is-kabuki-brush/
  • graillotion

    Member
    October 18, 2020 at 8:01 pm

    You need to get good information for your face cream 

    https://www.blendsmartreviews.com/what-is-kabuki-brush/

    Did you send the link you intended?  That one was about a Kabuki brush???

  • natasha3211

    Member
    October 19, 2020 at 8:26 pm

    yes there are many more brushes you can see check this site

  • pattsi

    Member
    October 20, 2020 at 5:22 am

    Oh my, Korean Market is so hard lol in my humble opinion.
    if you go for cosmetics, I say you can have shinny glossy filmy dewy product youngster seem to like it that way. I assumed you speak Korean, many bloggers or influencers seem to have concluded the more dewy, the slower absorption, means the more skin hydration.
    if you go for functional cosmetics, I say your cream should better have quick absorb feeling.
    I think your wife is spot on Korean trend. Don’t forget to compare your price with others around 
    홍대, 이대.

  • graillotion

    Member
    October 20, 2020 at 6:36 am

    Pattsi said:

    Oh my, Korean Market is so hard lol in my humble opinion.
    if you go for cosmetics, I say you can have shinny glossy filmy dewy product youngster seem to like it that way. I assumed you speak Korean, many bloggers or influencers seem to have concluded the more dewy, the slower absorption, means the more skin hydration.
    if you go for functional cosmetics, I say your cream should better have quick absorb feeling.
    I think your wife is spot on Korean trend. Don’t forget to compare your price with others around 홍대, 이대.

    I am a citizen of the world, a whitey, born in Africa, and raised in Korea.  Was once completely fluent in Korean, but lost it after not using it for 30 years.  But was surprised how quickly it came back, after meeting my Korean wife…hehhe.  
    The Korean market has kinda just fallen into my lap, as my wife was a sort of influencer, and hung out with the same kind.  We also make really pretty labels…hehehe…and I think that is at least half of it.
    I’ve got the quick absorbing thing nailed…. and I know how to make it slower absorbing, and more glossy….so I guess I will have to make two creams.  :)
    Enjoy one of my wife’s paintings…from our yard.
    Aloha.

  • pattsi

    Member
    October 21, 2020 at 8:17 am

    That’s dope.
    Happy formulating. :) :) :)  

  • natasha3211

    Member
    October 23, 2020 at 2:39 pm

    yes best brushes

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