Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Leave In Conditioner w/ 20% Shea Butter

  • Leave In Conditioner w/ 20% Shea Butter

    Posted by Sasse on July 9, 2020 at 9:41 pm

    Hello everyone,

    I recently purchased a leave-in conditioner and after using it I was wondering how it is possible to incorporate 20% shea butter (claim on the packaging) without the product feeling greasy. There are also other oils in this formula as well. 

    Does it have something to do with other ingredients like Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin? 
    Here is the ingredients list: 

    Water (Aqua), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Canola Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Panthenol, Fragrance (Parfum), Alpha Isomethyl Ionone, Butylphenyl Methyl Propional, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dicetyldimonium Chloride, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin, Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Polyquaterium-10, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

    Sasse replied 3 years, 8 months ago 4 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • pharma

    Member
    July 10, 2020 at 4:58 am
    The one thing I can tell you is that their LOI contains an error (and a blend called LexFeel N5): Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer. There’s a “/”, not a “,” between the words glycerin and sebacic.
    Diheptyl succinate is said to feel silicone-like (never tried it myself) and it certainly is a light ester but I have a hard time imagining that only that small amount should change the overall feel of the product.
    I’d guess it’s the emulsifier Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate.
    But then again, I have a difficult time finding the 1% line… maybe the LOI contains even more errors?
  • EVchem

    Member
    July 10, 2020 at 11:04 am

    Yeah that’s a weird looking one.

    The 20% shea could be something like Lipex SheaLiquid™ TR, the INCI is shea butter but its only liquid fractions. 

    I would think the 1% line would be before panthenol and fragrance? Maybe even before olive oil & glycerin

  • oldperry

    Member
    July 10, 2020 at 3:07 pm

    That sure looks like a heavy leave-in conditioner!  I agree that the 1% line is probably before the Panthenol, although some companies today put in more which I don’t understand at all.

  • Sasse

    Member
    July 12, 2020 at 2:19 pm

    Thank you all for your replies, I have gained a better understanding now! 

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