Natural Anti soaping (whitening effect) ingredients

AnnaAnna Member
edited December 2014 in Formulating
Hi every one
Is there any natural ingredients that can replace for
dimethicone which can help for the formula easy spreadable, and reduce
the soaping (whitening effect when rub on)" ? I do use any silicone for
my moisturizer cream. My skin is very sensitive, prone acne and easy to
broke out. i tried on C12,15 Alkyl Benzoate  to reduce soaping and
Glycol distearate (pearlizer) however I have acne ( not sure which cause
the pimple). Thanks

Comments

  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Anna:

    The culprit is most likely the Glycol Distearate which is dispersible in water, but not soluble in water.  That's probably what is exacerbating the breakouts.

    You must decide if your cream being white is really that important.  Try it again without the Glycol Distearate.

    You can try jojoba esters, but that will not affect the color of your formulation.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    Provides Formulation Development and Lab-Scale Contract Manufacturing Services.  See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com

  • dicaprylyl ether is a good alternative for silicones...
  • I have had good results replacing dow corning 1401 with isoamyl laurate
  • MicroformulationMicroformulation Member, Professional Chemist
    They do fall short of good old safe and highly maligned Dimethicone BUT I have had some success with Bamboo Bioferment from the Formulator Sample Shop (Active Concepts).
    markfuller@microformulation.com Microformulation.com Microformulation Cosmetic Consulting provides Custom Formulations for both large Commercial accounts as well as smaller entrepreneurs. We can provide Naturally compliant Formulations under the NSF, NPA, Whole Foods and USDA Organic Certifications. BS.Pharm Albany College of Pharmacy, Union University.
  • Chemist77Chemist77 Member, PCF student
    @Sarah I have used the same and it has a wonderful spreadability, but for one to one replacement of 1401???? 
  • @milliachemist I did a quick swap at 1:1 - it was not a 100% match but gave a less greasy feeling product which our customers seem to like. 

    Very very short notice project i.e. we have told our customers that the products are now silicone free - we need a new formulation before the next production run please.... 
  • AnnaAnna Member
    edited December 2014
    Thank you guys! I will try today :-*
  • @ MarkBroussard
     still be failed with 3% C12,15 Alkyl Benzoate  to reduce soaping ( no braking out any more, good news). Do you thing the big problem is Olivem 1000 which cause whitening effect when rub on? what is the best natural emulsifier that i can use in stead of Olivem 1000?
  • MarkBroussardMarkBroussard Member, Professional Chemist
    Anna:

    Try increasing the Alkyl Benzoate to 5%.  Olivem 1000 simply soaps a bit under any circumstances.  It is an excellent natural emulsifier, but you are going to have to accept a bit of soaping, but not so much soaping that it is problematic.

    Nasrins and Sarah posted a couple of other alternatives.  You might also look into jojoba esters or ethylhexyl palmitate.

    Lastly, cut down on the Olivem to 3%.
    Chemist/Microbiologist formulating in the Organic & Naturals arena under ECOCert/Natural Products Assn/Whole Foods/National Organic Program guidelines focused skincare & haircare products. 

    Provides Formulation Development and Lab-Scale Contract Manufacturing Services.  See website for details www.desertinbloomcosmeticslab.com

  • chemicalmattchemicalmatt Member, Professional Chemist
    Anna, none of the esters mentioned will reduce the "soaping" effect you observed - not by much anyway. Olivem 1000 lends just a little, but the EGDS you've added to your formula, or another stearate or laurate ester, is the likely culprit. Solution is quite simple: add cetyl alcohol, even 0.50% can cut down that soaping effect dramatically. Kudos for using my favorite ester C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in your product.  As I've said on this blog before: what can't Finsolv TN do?
  • I will try it again MarkBroussard
    I will also try as  advice from chemicalmatt
      MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR (:

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