Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Antioxidants for oil

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  • Antioxidants for oil

    Posted by abdullah on May 10, 2020 at 6:18 am

    What are some good antioxidants to prevent the oils like hemp seed oil from oxidation and extend it Shel life? 

    Naturals are better

    abdullah replied 3 years, 9 months ago 5 Members · 17 Replies
  • 17 Replies
  • pharma

    Member
    May 10, 2020 at 7:45 am

    Tocopherol and rosemary extract come to mind. Ascorbyl palmitate is not entirely natural but made from ‘naturals’ and would be a great partner for aforementioned phenolic antioxidants.

  • abdullah

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 5:54 am

    @Pharma thanks 

    Is rosemary extract oil soluble? 

    At what percentage should we use these two? 

    Which type of tocopherol is better?

  • pharma

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 7:33 am
    Rosemary extract is obtained by alcohol or acetone extraction and is hence oil soluble. However, depending on the product, it may contain other ingredients to render it better water or better oil soluble.
    As an antioxidant, the rule of thumbs is ~0.1%.
    A natural tocopherol mixture seems to be less likely to show pro-oxidant activity if used at higher amounts compared to purified alpha-tocopherol.
  • graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 5:57 pm

    Pharma said:

    Tocopherol and rosemary extract come to mind. Ascorbyl palmitate is not entirely natural but made from ‘naturals’ and would be a great partner for aforementioned phenolic antioxidants.

    I know it is NOT an antioxidant….but do things like meadowfoam oil help?  I know the sellers brag…that comingling their product extends the life of more prone oils?  Is this marketing or legit?

  • graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 7:35 pm

    I realize that ‘averaging’ might sound good on paper….does it work from a scientific perspective? 

  • pharma

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 8:19 pm
    Good question, very good question! I’m not convinced and am wondering the same… theory doesn’t add up. BTW I’ve bought some meadowfoam oil (I like it, feels nice, dunno about usability without actually turning it into a useful cream) and some crambe oil (not sure what to think of that, doesn’t feel special) too, just to try them out. Although expiration dates on the re-packed bottles are in far future (well, they usually refer to expiration of the unopened and with inert gas filled original container), the allegedly scentless crambe oil smelled rancid upon arrival… Ah, well… the other stuff I’ve bought was okay so I don’t complain just because of a few bucks.
    Maybe it’s marketing, maybe ‘averaging’ really helps… In which case adding olive or high oleic sunflower oil should do the same trick. Maybe it’s just acting through dilution of the highly unsaturated aka unstable oils or only boosts marketing so that the pots and tubes stand less long on the shelves?
    @microformulation or other pros might know better.
  • graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 8:32 pm

    Pharma said:

    Good question, very good question! 

    Sometime I regret the decisions of my youth….like the Business degree (all though it served me well)…instead of the Chemistry degree. As I reflect on life…all the things I learned well….were self taught/learned.  I tell young people….your degree only teaches you how to learn, what you learn is up to you!  All though I fear…schools no longer teach this method of question everything, and ask for proof.  I had some crazy hybrid education…mix of British/American/Korean…hehehe…  Seoul Foreign School.

  • graillotion

    Member
    May 19, 2020 at 9:55 pm

    I do think…..’averaging + antioxidants’….is some kind of thing! :) 

    I use a multi-oil blend (includes meadowfoam)….some of them sensitive… so when they arrive, I mix the blend together with ROE, Vitamin E, and then refrigerate.  Granted my product never gets old as it rotates quickly,  But I am always amazed by how nice my oils are in that format…..Not scientific, just an observation.

    This makes production much easier…as I only have to measure one oil product.

    Sidebar:  This is something that has surprised me…..I use one oil in particular…that is semi-solid at my room temp…(high elevation Hawaii)…  When included in this blend….and kept in the refrigerator….it is still fluid.  I thought it would separate and solidify!

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    May 20, 2020 at 8:33 pm

    Rosemary oleoresin works like a charm.

  • esthetician922

    Member
    May 21, 2020 at 2:43 am

    @chemicalmatt what percentage of rosemary do you typically use?

  • graillotion

    Member
    May 21, 2020 at 7:08 am

    @chemicalmatt what percentage of rosemary do you typically use?

    I use .02%.  Make sure ROE…and not Rosemary Essential oil!

    • INCI Rosmarinus officinalis Leaf Extract 
    • Recommended Use Level: 0.03% - 0.5%  Or 200- 1000 ppm calculated on oil content
    • Appearance: Brown viscous liquid
    • Carnosic Acid Content: Typical 5 to 7% (5% minimum)
  • esthetician922

    Member
    May 21, 2020 at 2:40 pm

    Got it. Since rose hip oil goes rancid pretty quickly do you think ROE would help?

  • pharma

    Member
    May 21, 2020 at 3:18 pm

    It should slow down degradation. If you have water in your product, also use a good chelate.

  • esthetician922

    Member
    May 21, 2020 at 8:46 pm

    @Pharma
     what if it’s just rose hip neat and I add a little ROE to it?

  • abdullah

    Member
    May 30, 2020 at 8:36 am

    @Pharma 
    Would water soluble rosemary extract have the same effect as ROE if added to a cream with unrefined hempseed oil which goes rancid very quickly? 

  • pharma

    Member
    May 30, 2020 at 5:07 pm
    @esthetician922 That would help to prolong shelf life.
    @Abdullah Maybe, maybe not. ROE contains carnosic acid and carnosol as ‘actives’ which are oil soluble and therefore protect oils. Water soluble rosemary extract contains rosmarinic acid as ‘active’ constituent which is somewhat water soluble and soluble in alcohol and other medium polarity solvents. It will therefore be a lot less effective in protecting oils.
    A combination with ROE, tocopherol, or ascorbyl palmitate would be preferable.
  • abdullah

    Member
    June 5, 2020 at 6:57 am

    @Pharma thanks brother

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