Emulsions: incorporating temperature sensitive powders. Your way?

Hi Folks, hope you are all well and happy.

When you need to add a water-soluble temp-sensitive powder in the cooling phase of emulsion making, do you disperse it during the cooling phase or first dissolve in water and add that during the cooling phase? 

How much of add-ons (% weight) an emulsion could typically tolerate during the cooling phase?
What are your favorite emulsifiers that do not require heating things up (for a o/w emulsion)?
Thank you :) 


  • EVchemEVchem Member
    Depends on the powder I think- is it an 'active' or an excipient?

    The add-on limit will depend on your emulsion as well and what the add-ons are. Without more info, "it depends" is the go-to answer.

    Sepimax Zen/ Sepinov EMT 10/ Carbopol Ultrez 21 are nice for cold-process, but I don't usually use them alone.  There's Jeesperse which has some cold-process waxes but it can be finicky and doesn't have the same body as a traditional cream. Again, it depends on what feel/product you are going for.

  • @EVchem thank you, I'm still at the point of the early back-of-the-napkin design for my cream but I use a preservative (Leucidal, I know some here dislike but works for me) and it alone takes up 4-5% during cooling. So that got me thinking, how much more I can add during that phase and if there are alternatives that I can order on Lotioncrafter to experiment with.
    The powder is prebiotics so it is heat-sensitive (to the point) till it turns into caramel :) The emulsifier that I have on hands requires 80C, this is too much for the powder.
    In terms of value, I was thinking something fast drying with glycolic acid (5-10%, in water phase) and prebiotics (1-2% but need to dissolve in water first, cooling phase).
    So given high % concentration of preservative + prebiotics dissolved in water to be added in the cooling phase would account for like 15-25% of the total weight. 

    Since I have no access to the lab, I'd have to experiment in the kitchen and don't have much time when it's free :)) otherwise I'd try and see if things work with much less planning:))
    In terms of the final composition, either lotion or cream. For oil phase my current thoughts were: 
    Caprylic Capric Trygleciride 10-25%
    PhytoMulse 4-6% (mostly because I have a free sample on hands)
    Behenyl Alcohol 2-3%

    Thank you for reading and taking the time to respond.

  • EVchemEVchem Member
    leucidal liquid SF (Lactobacillus Ferment) gets touted as a probiotic- do you have that or the radish root? 

    Which Phytomulse? When you post ingredients it's best to include INCI since not everyone knows/can access what is in the trade name.  I'm curious how that emulsifier does with your pro/prebiotics, usually those are high in electrolytes and cause stability issues
  • Right, PhytoMulse is:
    Cetearyl Alcohol & Glyceryl Stearate & Almondeth-20

    This is the first time I'll be using this combo. I'll report once I make some samples.
    Lactobacillus Ferment is in all Leucidal products. It's the question what you fermented :)) I'm using this one:

    INC: Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract

    Any thoughts on max volume/ % of the add-ons during the cooling phase?

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