Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Thoughts on mega concentrations of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

  • Thoughts on mega concentrations of Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

    Posted by JPS on February 4, 2020 at 6:07 am

    I’ve been looking into a few vitamin C serums in lipid based formulas and now finding that the percentages are going up from 15% (Sunday Riley), 20% (Peter Thomas Roth), and 70% (Truth Treatments by a pharmacist).. 

    The research seems to max out at 10% unless there are other studies I’m not aware of (if so, please do enlighten me). Is more better here being that 
    Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate doesn’t have exfoliating potential like ascorbic acid (which is pretty unstable)?

    Any thoughts on this? I personally like Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate but wondering what the % efficacy*** range is? (***mainly reduction in pigmentation from sun damage). 

    I’d love to know what you have to say about vitamin C in oil/balm products in general as well as your experience.

    Thanks!

    JPS replied 4 years, 1 month ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • EVchem

    Member
    February 4, 2020 at 2:42 pm

     We’ve done 17-20 % THD Ascorbate. Stability wise noticed no issues,  but in terms of efficacy I don’t think 20% is going to be linearly more powerful.  And yeah I only see testing up to 10% which could be related to efficacy maxing out or formula cost getting too high.

  • JPS

    Member
    February 4, 2020 at 5:43 pm

    EVchem said:

     We’ve done 17-20 % THD Ascorbate. Stability wise noticed no issues,  but in terms of efficacy I don’t think 20% is going to be linearly more powerful.  And yeah I only see testing up to 10% which could be related to efficacy maxing out or formula cost getting too high.

    Thanks for your feedback. I came across a 70% THD formula and wondering if there’s research to back this up? 

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