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SHAMPOO SURFACTANTS
Hello Everyone,
I have been reading this forum about a half a year now
and I got so many useful informations. I thank you all for your contribution.Today I need (and I kindly ask you for) your help. I have
no cosmetic/chemist background.My formula for NORMAL TO DRY hair has around 13% surfactant total active matter :
Disodium/Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 8% , (anionic)
Disodium Cocoampodiacetate 3%, (amphoteric)
Decyl Glucoside 1%, (nonionic)
Lamesoft PO65 1%. (aniconic?)
Could this be call a mild shampoo? I read somewhere the
sum for shampoo surfactants should be 10-15% of total active matter. Is it
true? Total surfactant per weight in my shampoo is 44,5 %
which seems to me somehow high. Could this be (theoretically ) OK or have I
failed somewhere in my calculations?My sufractant formula for NORMAL TO OILY hair has about
16,5 % surfactants total active matter, using the same surfactants in different
%:Disodium/Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate 8,8
Disodium Cocoampodiacetate 4,7
Decyl Glucoside 2,7
Lamesoft 0,35
Since this is out of recommended 10-15% sum of AM, would it be to
harsh for scalp? I also read that for oily hair one should use mild
surfactants. Is my mixture mild enough to be able to claim this?I am thickening both shampoos with xantan (0,4 -0,5%) ,
premixed with glycerin (3%). To this I pour water with
Pantheol and Betaine and the surfactants blend. Then I let it sit for 4-5 hours.
Only then I add Essential oil blend (around
1%) and Geogard 221 preservative (0,8%). I mix it well by hand. At the very end I also
add citric acid solution to lower Ph to 5-5,5. The consistancy remains too thin
and it seems like the xantan mixture is not evenly dispersed. If I go to 1 % of xantan it becomes somehow unusable due to a kind of a snoty constistancy.
Is there any better procedure or a natural ingredient to fix this problem? It
is all at the room temperature procedure.Would also like to
get your opinions on surfactants selection for both types of shampoo. (I need
the shampoo to be Cosmos/Ecocert aproved).
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