Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup PRESSED SHADOW WITH CALCIUM ALUM.BOROSILICATE-PROBLEM

  • PRESSED SHADOW WITH CALCIUM ALUM.BOROSILICATE-PROBLEM

    Posted by May1234 on November 2, 2019 at 9:42 pm
    Hello.I’m new here.I want to do pressed shadows with very very shiny-unique effect.I have benchnark,Inci name, I did a lot off test and I don’t know where is the problem :
    After pressing ,the shadow is brittle,behaves like a pillow but benchamrk is a good tied.i suppose the main ingredients it:
    Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (20-100pm)
    Synthetics fluorogophite ( interference mika synthetics or white synthetic fluorogophite)
    Silica- I’m not sure what kind off Sillica-it’s maybe silica microsphere or silica silica like Aerosil or Wacker HDK15.
    Gransil clear gel from Company Grant Inc (inci:Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11)
    Pentaerithrityl Tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS from CRODA)
    Isostearyl Isostearate-Crodmol ISIS from Company Croda
    Inci name benchmark:Calcium Sodium Borosilicate,Synthetic Fluorogophite,Silica,Mica,Dimethicone,Cyclopentasiloxane,Polysilicone-11,Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate,Isostearyl Isostearate,Phenoxyethanol,Ethylhexylglycerin,{+/_CI77981,77491,77492,77499,77266,77510,77288,45380,19140,15850,15880,77007,77492,45410,TIN OXIDE.
    Benchamrk has many colors but I’m sure that this inci is collective formulation.
    Could someone help me develop this formulation?
    Thanks in advance
    Regards
    May……
    May1234 replied 4 years, 4 months ago 2 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • May1234

    Member
    November 4, 2019 at 7:29 pm
    I am straightening my request and inquiry.
    It is my formulation:
    Calcium Aluminium Borosilicate  Intereference colour (20-100 pm) x 58.41 %
    Silica Wacker HDK N20 X 3.095 %
    Mika Natural 5.841 %
    Pentaerithrytyl Tetraisostearate x 3.95 %
    Isostearyl Isostearate - 3.95 %
    Gransil clear gel ( Dimethicone&Cyclopentasiloxane & Polysilicone 11) x 24.76 %
    Plus preservative about 0.8 % but I didn’t give it to the test trial
    The final product is very fluffy, too little gloss, it crumbles.
    Can I count on any help, suggestions?
    Thank you in advance and best regards to everyone
  • May1234

    Member
    November 4, 2019 at 7:35 pm

    May1234 said:

    Hello.I’m new here.I want to do pressed shadows with very very shiny-unique effect.I have benchnark,Inci name, I did a lot off test and I don’t know where is the problem :
    After pressing ,the shadow is brittle,behaves like a pillow but benchamrk is a good tied.i suppose the main ingredients it:
    Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (20-100pm)
    Synthetics fluorogophite ( interference mika synthetics or white synthetic fluorogophite)
    Silica- I’m not sure what kind off Sillica-it’s maybe silica microsphere or silica silica like Aerosil or Wacker HDK15.
    Gransil clear gel from Company Grant Inc (inci:Dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane and Polysilicone-11)
    Pentaerithrityl Tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS from CRODA)
    Isostearyl Isostearate-Crodmol ISIS from Company Croda
    Inci name benchmark:Calcium Sodium Borosilicate,Synthetic Fluorogophite,Silica,Mica,Dimethicone,Cyclopentasiloxane,Polysilicone-11,Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate,Isostearyl Isostearate,Phenoxyethanol,Ethylhexylglycerin,{+/_CI77981,77491,77492,77499,77266,77510,77288,45380,19140,15850,15880,77007,77492,45410,TIN OXIDE.
    Benchamrk has many colors but I’m sure that this inci is collective formulation.
    Could someone help me develop this formulation?
    Thanks in advance
    Regards
    May……

    I am straightening my request and inquiry.

    It is my formulation:

    Calcium Aluminium Borosilicate  Intereference colour (20-100 pm) x
    58.41 %

    Silica Wacker HDK N20 X 3.095 %

    Mika Natural 5.841 %

    Pentaerithrytyl Tetraisostearate x 3.95 %

    Isostearyl Isostearate - 3.95 %

    Gransil clear gel ( Dimethicone&Cyclopentasiloxane & Polysilicone
    11) x 24.76 %

    Plus preservative about 0.8 % but I didn’t give it to the test trial

    The final product is very fluffy, too little gloss, it crumbles.

    Can I count on any help, suggestions?

    Thank you in advance and best regards to everyone

     

  • Sponge

    Member
    November 7, 2019 at 6:44 pm

    You could add styrene/isoprene crosspolymer or a similar polymer. A clear, high gloss wax could help. Finally, what about stickier oils like hydrogenated polyisobutene?

  • May1234

    Member
    November 9, 2019 at 9:46 am

    I thought that nobody would write back to me, thank you very much, the product is starting to be stable, the only problem I still have is in the pigments of interference , as I increase the viscosity, it gets mud , but I think I will work it out now, I have to adjust the oils , thank you very much and help :)

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