Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Body cream

  • Body cream

    Posted by bella82 on October 22, 2019 at 10:00 pm

    please look at my cream and help me make some adjustments. I have made some adjustments but am still not getting the creamy silky velvety feel. 

    Here it is. 

    Water                    67%
    glycerine               2.2%
    ceteareth 20         4.5%
    olive m                  2.2%
    cocoa                   15%
    Macadamia nut    6.7%
    petrolatum            9.4%
    liquid paraffin.       5.4%
    Preservative          1%
    parfum.                  1.3%
    cyclopentasiloxane 4.4%     
    edta.                        0.2%
    citric acid                 0.2%

    ph is 3.4. 
    PS: this is my first body cream. 

    ngarayeva001 replied 4 years, 5 months ago 3 Members · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • belassi

    Member
    October 22, 2019 at 11:39 pm

    First, D5 has already been severely restricted in use levels. 4.4% does not comply. 
    Second, do you mean actual cocoa? Your cream is a dark brown? What is “olive m”?

  • bella82

    Member
    October 23, 2019 at 8:06 am

    Apologies for the abbreviations. 
    Tgis is the formulation 

    water                                67%
    glycerin.                            2.2%
    cetearyl peg 20 steerate   4.5%
    cetearyl/sorbitan olivate.   2.2%
    cocoa butter                       15%
    macadamia nut oil.              6.7%
    petrolatum.                          9.4%
    Liquid paraffin.                     5.4%
    preservative.                         1%
    parfum.                                  1.3%
    cyclopentasiloxane.               4.4%
    edta.                                       0.2%
    citric acid.                               0.2%

    since cyclopentasiloxane is restricted, what is the max % allowed. Can I swap it with isopropyl myristate.?

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 23, 2019 at 3:31 pm

    If I may, Cyclopentasiloxane is not restricted! It is poisonous for aquatic life, and thus it WILL be restricted soon in the EU in rinse-off products.

    products containing either ingredient (D4 and D5) in a concentration higher than 0.1% will not be allowed on the European market after Jan. 31, 2020.”

    Source: 
    https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/region/europe/EU-Effectively-Bans-D4-and-D5-in-Wash-Off-Products-474982233.html

    It is totally safe to use so if this is for personal use and in a body lotion just continue to enjoy these wonderful volatile silicones! 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 23, 2019 at 3:44 pm

    @bella82, let me start from saying that your formula is ok. If you are not happy with the aesthetics, you can do the following:
    1) Decrease your oil phase to 20% total (I would even say 15) but if it’s for dry skin, keep 20.
    2) Keep the petrolatum - it’s amazing and reduces TEWL
    3) If you already have isopropyl myristate, reduce the cocoa butter and macadamia oil to the minimum and add isopropyl myristate. You don’t get a nice silky feel because you have chosen draggy and heavy oils.
    4) I am a bit concerned about stability when it gets to cyclopentasiloxane because it’s a bit on the high end and your emulsifiers are not specifically designed for silicones. You should either decrease it to 2% or introduce silicone emulsifier. It’s up to you. 
    5) Although 
    cyclopentasiloxane is great, just for your information, another option if low viscosity dimethicone (say dimethicone 5 or dimethicone 10)
    6) The most important thing, you should add polymeric emulsifier to get that silky smooth feel. If you let me know where you are based I will recommend the DIY supplier that have those. But I am generally talking about a class of ingredients that are called hydrocolloids derived from acrylic acid. For example Aristoflex AVC, Sepinov EMT 10, Sepiplus 400, Pemulen Ez4U etc.

  • bella82

    Member
    October 23, 2019 at 5:15 pm

    Thank you for the advice. I am based in England. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    October 23, 2019 at 10:41 pm

    Well the good thing about England is that everyone delivers here. Makingcosmetics is sold on Amazon here (although expensive). The best option is this ingredient MakingCosmetics - GelMaker® EMU - 4.2floz / 125ml - Cosmetic Ingredient https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01G0RIV20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nonSDb0HG0A50
    Probably get something else to justify this ridiculous delivery price. It’s a very versatile and easy to work with ingredient. Reduce emulsifiers, reduce heavy oils and add 1% of this gelmaker.

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