Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating essential oils: citrus limon peel oil, citrus grapefruit peel oil and orange peel oil

  • essential oils: citrus limon peel oil, citrus grapefruit peel oil and orange peel oil

    Posted by dtdang on September 10, 2019 at 5:09 pm

    Most of essential oils are not friendly with the skin. But citrus limon peel oil, citrus grapefruit peel oil and orange peel oil mixed together give wonderful smell and quickly absorbs through skin.

    Anyone has experiences with citrus limon peel oil, citrus grapefruit peel oil and orange peel oil?

    I appreciate and thank to all inputs.

    dtdang replied 4 years, 6 months ago 5 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • AuroraBorealis

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 6:06 pm

    I have a bad experience with this combination and even the oils individually. From skin sensitivity and pigmentation to formula instability. I often advise clients against them unless they are willing to take the risk and insist on a specific claim or story.

    I also believe they’re harmful to puppies. Don’t quote me on this but I vaguely recall a client testing some formula with the citrus oils and reporting adverse skin reactions from their canine where the owner had just ‘touched’ them. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 10, 2019 at 6:54 pm

    You have actually chosen the worst ones…
    Here, an oil discussion, Perry shared here a study on essential oils, that specifies that citrus oils are phototoxic:
    https://www.chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/4656/to-be-or-not-to-be-essential-oils-in-skincare#latest

  • dtdang

    Member
    September 11, 2019 at 11:46 pm

    @ngarayeva001, I bought oil-free moisture body cream. It is amazing that the cream absorbs into the skin rapidly and leaves no oils on the skin.
    citrus oils are in the ingredients:

    Water
    butylene glycol
    dicaprylyl
    carbonate

    silica
    glycerin
    niacinamide
    isopropyl isostearate
    citrus
    lemon peel oil
    grapefruit peel oil - poor
    spearmint leaf oil
    orange peel oil
    limonene
    linalool
    citral
    butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
    jojoba butter
    hydroxyehyl urea
    hordeum vulgare (barley) extract
    trehalose
    cucumber fruit extract
    ginseng root extract
    sodium polyaspartate
    tocopheryl acetate
    sodium pca
    sunflower seed cake
    sorbitol
    caffeine
    linoleic acid
    ophiopogon japonicus root extract
    squalane
    sodium hyaluronate
    ppg-15 stearyl ether
    ammonium acryloydimethyltaurate.vp
    copolymer
    hydroxyaccetophenone
    carbomer
    caprylyl glycol
    xanthan gum
    sodium hydroxide
    ethylhexylglycerin
    disodium
    edta

    Tetrasodium EDTA better solute in water

    phenoxyethanol

    ammonium acryloydimethyltaurate.vp copolymer is thickener? What ingredients are emulsifiers? How the cream is oil-free?

  • oldperry

    Member
    September 12, 2019 at 12:52 am

    The claim “oil free” can mean whatever the marketer wants it to mean. Usually, they mean “mineral oil free”. It’s just a marketing claim which doesn’t mean much in terms of science.

  • dtdang

    Member
    September 12, 2019 at 1:26 am

    @Perry, I used this cream and found that after applying the cream on the skin, the cream absorbs into the skin right away without leaving the oil on the skin.

  • Sibech

    Member
    September 12, 2019 at 5:19 am

    @dtdang You can thank the Esters dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl isostearate and the Silica in that formulation for that feeling. The many oils are (hopefully) there at a very low concentration and added only as a scent.

    as for your question “which is the emulsifier”: PPG-15 Stearyl Ether & Aristoflex AVC is probably what’s keeping it together possibly with added thanks to the silica.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 12, 2019 at 5:43 am

    ammonium acryloydimethyltaurate.vp copolymer Is a polymeric emulsifier Aristoflex AVC and you can find it on lotioncrafter. It can emulsify only 5% of oils on its own, but it changes texture of the product significantly. It’s often used as a stabiliser and to improve  aesthetics of the product. It’s that one ingredient that turns a generic lotion into a luxury product.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    September 12, 2019 at 5:45 am

    I hope they just listed ingredients in the wrong order. Citrus oils are too high in the list.

  • dtdang

    Member
    September 12, 2019 at 12:27 pm

    @ngarayeva001, @Sibech, @Perry thank you so much 

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